(http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?p=4209697#post4209697)

SO nice to see MSI pick up on request so fast. I hear they are also working on the vcore issue. Great, awesome, Super-dooper!!

Hardware usage:

The main vessel used in this was found at Walmart and can be commonly found as a “Mule Mug”. I picked this mainly as I have been eyeing them at local stores for a while and when they were used for the US Country Cup Meet earlier last year. One of the only completely flat bottom vessels which have an adequate amount of surface area to contact your CPU of choice. As I wanted this project to be as reasonably cheap as possible, I used #8-32 threaded rod and cut into 7in (178mm) segments and wire wheeled 3in (76mm) on one side to fit through motherboard mounting holes. All rods are held from the back using nylon locking nuts with the various other hardware is shown using #8 thread size. Washers are used whenever possible but the total amount will be reduced when the backplate is made. The handle was cut but can also be pulled off when the adhesive is loosened. Insulation of the container does a good job on the sides but the bottom curve needs to be covered unless a lot of frost will build. I used PLA for my mount but a more resistant filament is better for rigidity and for safety concerns as I used the PLA mount for a limited amount of time.

Afterthoughts:

As this will be used for benchmarking, more “thermal mass” is needed as it will experience spikes of heat at certain intervals. Due to the minimal amount of direct metal incorporated, Taking the copper slugs from Intel/OEM stock coolers and stacking them will benefit overall use which is highly recommended. I stacked a few copper slugs and placed as many copper fins as I could and keeping some space for pouring DICE inside. Soldering copper wherever possible will be considered but there will be limits to an $8 cup. Any comments or suggestions are appreciated. 

Pricing: USD

[ Home Depot ]

Threaded Rod - $4

Nylon Lock Nuts - $1.30

Spring Assortment: $5.50

#8 Flat Washers - $1.30

#8-32 Wing Nut - $1.30

3D Printed Mount - $5

[ Walmart ]

Bar340 20oz Mule Mug - $8.40

Shop Towel (1) - $3

Isopropyl 97% 32oz - $3 / Acetone 1gal - $20

~$35 Total for main supplies

So, the question: how much do you pay for your LN2?

My current deal runs at 22 SEK + VAT per liter, working out at a nice sum of 27.50 SEK, which in its turn is... 3€.

I was much happier when I had someone pay for my LN2.

So there's a couple of options I'm considering and I'd love to get some feedback on my thought before I make a decision. FYI: I'm not looking to break any records, I'm mostly looking into this to have fun (though moving up some spots in the rankings is always a nice reward ?)

Peltier (TEC)

This is probably the worst option due to how inefficient these things are. Even a CPU which runs stock at 95W needs a 200W peltier element and some decent water cooling to keep it under control. I'm also not really expecting sub-zero temperatures under load with these.

Phase change cooling (SS)

The thing I like most about SS is that they are easily reusable and I can pop it on a CPU whenever I want, no need to go buy consumables. However, I'm having a hard time finding one and shipping these from abroad seems risky to me (let alone the fact that maintenance on these things requires skills and certifications which I don't have and which are expensive to get in Belgium). Single stages go sub-zero, but it's limited, especially under load and these things usually have a certain TDP range in which they work most efficiently.

Dry ice

To be honest, this seems to me like the best way to start, it's not as extreme as LN2 but -78°c is already a pretty damn good temperature. I'm a bit worried about the costs of it in the long run. I found some stores selling dry ice, but they all seem to require you to buy a minimum of 5kg for roughly €20-€25. I also can't find any numbers online on how much dry ice you'd use in a day, but the main issue is that you must use it all in one day since dry ice is kind of gone after a day or two, so I need to plan in advance when I want it and then probably spend over an hour in the car to pick it up.

There's plenty of options for pots and accessories (thanks to this topic), which is great. Starting with DI seems kind of easy and relatively cheap to start since it doesn't require any special gear.

LN2

This is probably the most extreme (apart from helium) and is a immediately a deep dive into extreme overclocking. I'm not sure if it's the "best" to start this low. I can't seem to find stores that don't require you to get a quote for pricing but based on this topic I guess about €1/L seems to be a common price. I remember from some Youtube videos that 10-20L a day isn't uncommon, so the price is a bit similar, but I can buy a larger quantity and use it a couple of weekends (thus requiring a bit less planning compared to DI, since I don't need to order on a specific date/time and drive like an hour to get it).

Same remark when it comes to pots and accessories. Dewars can be rented but I suppose they don't come with the right fill lines so I'll have to get those too (+ some good gloves), which makes it a bit more expensive to start with.

So, am I seeing it the right way or am I missing some important things ?

to do overclocking, but with old hardware, just for fun

And while rummaging through my stocks of computer parts,

I came across Asetek's Vapochill Light speed, stored there on a cupboard,

sheltered from time, and the idea immediately germinated, but we have to talk about it,

get it working again, a piece of history like that, and in like new condition.

Through photos and videos, I will try to make you rediscover the Vapochill LightSpeed.

Hoping that you like it.

Dive back into the "golden age" of overclocking through this SS device can only do us good.

(Please excuse me for my English, I use a well-known translation system)

The 1st pics:

Here are the pictures, the video is coming soon

?

I bought used copper pot and it didn`t came with mounting plate. 

Before I go and make it by hand I ask if anybody got the thing drawn so I can make it cut by laser ?  Or maybe .stl for 3d print? 

The pot diameter is 71mm, I hope I will use it on 775 and 1150/55 motherboard. The more holes the better . I could use a good big backplate! 

Thank you all and have a good one, Blaz

Swicth Dual bios..

Detail Card and result later...

Not much to say, just a list of people/companies making LN2 cooling gear. Might be useful for some of you.

No links to pictures yet ... something to do for later. Also, I'm sure I've missed A LOT OF pots; just post in if you need some to be added.

Commercial product lines

• BartX
  
  • Phase change cooling and parts, LN2 containers, custom mounting kits
    
  • Based in Poland
    
  • Official website: http://www.bartxstore.cba.pl/index.html
    

• der8auer ECC
  
  • CPU, GPU and memory containers
    
  • Based in Germany
    
  • Official website: http://www.der8auer.de
    

• Dimastech
  
  • CPU containers
    
  • Based in Italy
    
  • Official website: http://www.dimastech.com/EN/
    

• Kingpincooling
  
  • CPU, GPU, memory and northbridge containers
    
  • Based in Taiwan
    
  • Official website: http://kingpincooling.com/
    

• Ln2cooling.com
  
  • CPU containers
    
  • Based in USA
    
  • Official website: http://www.ln2cooling.com/
    

• Piotres
  
  • CPU and GPU containers
    
  • Based in Poland
    
  • Official website: http://www.piotres.com/
    

• SF3D
  
  • 
    
  • CPU containers
    
  • Based in Finland
    
  • Contact: SF3DOCsales@sci.fi
    

• Ryba
  
  • VGA containers
    
  • Based in Poland
    
  • Contact: ryba@purepc.pl
    

Full list

CPU Containers

• Arscom216
  
  • PedroPC LN2 pot
    

• BartX
  
  • CPU Pot 2.0H
    
  • CPU Pot 2.0M
    
  • CPU Pot 2.0E
    

• Besi
  
  • Micro Monster Tube
    
  • Quadro Monster Tube
    
  • Quadro Monster Tube Rev2.0
    

[*]Der8auer

• Beast Pot
  
• CX rev1
  
• CX rev2
  
• Full Cu Pot
  
• FusionPot rev1
  
• FusionPot rev2
  
• SpecOps-Pot
  
• FusionPot rev3.0
  
• FusionPot rev3.1
  

[*]Crio

• CC-Pot Rev1.0
  

• DeDaL
  
  • MiniGUN 1.0 LN2 POT
    

[*]Dimastech

• ECO Pot V1.0
  
• ECO Pot V2.0
  

[*]Duniek

• Patchpot
  

[*]Harshal

• Astra
  

[*]Kingpincooling

• Dragon LN2 Rev1.2
  
• Dragon Evo 2.2
  
• Dragon Evo 2.3
  
• Dragon F1
  
• Dragon F1 Extreme Edition
  
• Dragon F1 Gemini
  

• Koolance
  
  • CPU-LN2-V2 Liquid Nitrogen Evaporator (CPU)
    

• Ln2cooling.com
  
  • The Phantom
    

[*]Nanok

• Fatboy pot
  

[*]Otterauge

• ChoopaCooler
  
• Rev. 01
  
• Rev. 02
  
• Rev. X1
  
• Rev. X2
  
• X1 Xtreme
  
• Xtrem ONE
  
• Xtreme Edition
  
• XtremEdition rev.3
  
• XtremEdition rev.4
  
• Xtrem Quad 1
  

[*]Piotres

• CPU copper semi-solid container (42mm diameter)
  
• CPU copper SOLID container (80mm diameter)
  
• CPU copper SOLID container (70x70mm)
  
• CPU copper SOLID container (70mm diameter)
  
• CPU copper SOLID container (60mm diameter)
  
• CPU copper SEMI-SOLID container (70/54mm diameter)
  
• CPU copper SOLID container (70x70mm) 140mm tall
  
• CPU copper SOLID container (70x70mm) version2
  

• Rasmus66
  
  • X pot
    

[*]SF3D

• AMD Helium Pot
  
• Inflection Point
  

• ThermoLab
  
  • ThermoLab Pot (golden edition)
    

• Wehr-Wolf
  
  • Baby-DI
    

• XtremeLabs.org
  
  • MAGNUM rev.2
    
  • MAGNUM rev.1
    

GPU Containers

• Besi
  
  • SLI-GPU-Monster-tubes
    

• Der8auer
  
  • RAPTOR 3
    
  • RAPTOR SLIM
    

• Koolance
  
  • VID-LN2-V2
    

[*]Kingpincooling

• Tek-9 3.0 GPU Ln2/DI
  
• Tek-9 4.0 Slim
  
• Tek-9 5.0 Slim
  
• Tek-9 6.66 Slim
  
• Tek-9 6 Slim
  
• Tek-9 Fat
  
• Tek-9 Slim
  
• Tek-9 Solid copper Ln2 rev 2.1
  

• Otterauge
  
  • Multi GPU K�hler
    

• Piotres
  
  • GPU xtra simple containers (35mm diameter)
    
  • GPU cooper steeper SLIM containers (42/2mm diameter)
    
  • GPU copper steeper containers (42mm diameter)
    
  • GPU copper containers (42mm diameter)
    

• Ryba
  
  • Fat
    
  • Slim
    
  • Slim Wide
    

• XtremeLabs.org
  
  • XtremeLabs.org GPU pot rev3
    

Memory Containers

• Besi
  
  • Memory Freezer rev1.0
    

• Carpo93
  
  • Carpo93's RamPot
    

• Der8auer
  
  • Cryoclamp Memory Container
    

• EK-SF3D
  
  • Triple Point EVO
    

[*]Kingpincooling

• Dominance Memory Cooler
  
• Ney Pro Memory Cooler
  

Northbridge Containers

• BartX
  
  • Semi solid NB container
    

• Der8auer
  
  • Little Alu Northbridge Pot
    

[*]Kingpincooling

• NB-1
  

[*]Otterauge

• NB K�hler
  

Im looking for xoc bios for this gpu. please see the screen shot of card info.

cheers

Is the an xoc bios for this mobo?

If you didn't find this valve, Drill Bit & TAP size to use, change!!!!!!

What you Need

1x 2Stage Vacuum Pump (ebay)

1x TAP 7-16"-20 UNF (ebay)

2x O-Ring (better if you find O-Ring for Low Temp)

1x Loctite 243

1x Brass Acces Valve (1/4sae-1/4sae) or (1/4sae-7/16"-20) http://ph.parker.com/us/17054/en/refrigeration-access-valves/avu1f1-4

1x Drill Bit 9.5mm for Steel

All this material need to apply Brass Acces Valve (1/4sae-1/4sae) or (1/4sae-7/16"-20) !!!!

If you didn't find this valve, Drill Bit & TAP size to use, change!!!!!!

I am looking to buy my first dewar and would like to know if the one in the link will be any good 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/BuoQua-Nitrogen-Container-Cryogenic-Canisters/dp/B07G9F1JYN/ref=asc_df_B07G9F1JYN/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=430861414528&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15010092042353483416&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006595&hvtargid=pla-907937743365&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=102738272529&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=430861414528&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15010092042353483416&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006595&hvtargid=pla-907937743365

Or if anyone could recommend a dewar in the uk

Thank you in advance 

during the development of my ln2 pot I modified a Kingping F1 Dark to see if I where right with an assumption. 

I connected the 4 inner holes of the pot with an cnc mill. I let a pillar in the middle standing. 

The results where really good. @P5ych0 tested the Pot bevor and after the modification on his i9 9900ks.

Result:

The pot maintains the tempreature under load much better (looses 3°C less than bevor) and is able to push the chip to 6.9Ghz in cb r15.  

Bevor the modification 6.86 ish where the max the pot could handle.

Picture of the mod:

posting this here since I am not sure if it has been posted previously.

So, as we all know, sometimes AB comes with some limitations that require to test and find the appropriate version of AB/ABX.

With this in mind, you can use Cheat Engine to lock values in the different voltage/clock memory addresses.

On the following video, it is shown how to overcome the 1300 (1.3v) core voltage on the 5970.

Please note that you can save the memory address as a profile on cheat engine so you can load it every time you select ab on cheat engine.
That way you don't have to do the whole search.

PS. similar program that works as well is artmoney

Cheers
 

It helps to have a known good CPU to test but that's not always possible.

After you confirm the obvious of reseating,  no bent pins, and tried a different board to no avail, there is still things you can try.  

When you press the power  button the fans come on?  They should come on high speed and quickly rev down.  If they don't rev down press the reset button(it should not work), If not use the restart button or the bios reset button to force restart. Keep trying about 20 times.  Watch for post code movement, listen for fan rev down. Hopefully your post code will recover and bring you back to EE, just hold the power button to power it off and back on, you should post back and enter bios to make an adjustment in vcore, ram speed, disable cores, and more.  If this method works for you and you can get to post the chances are it was damaged during OC.  What you will find out is you can keep restarting and everything will seem ok until you let it sit overnight and you will need to do the reset a bunch of times again to post.

If your fans don't rev down:

Pull the battery for a minute

Try BIOS 2 if you have one

Try each memory slot

Let mobo sit on at 00, wait for it to shut off on its own.  The machine shut down instantly after when you press the power button, don't get discouraged, pull the battery for one minute and start over.

Second CPU method, usually the mobo will sense CPU change but chances are your not getting that far. 

Go into bios with good CPU, set vcore to 1.4v, turn off all cores except one, turn off HT, go into devices and disable everything, set ram speed to 2666Mhz and auto timing.  Then swap to deaded CPU.

I will edit down my video demonstration of recovering a 00 CPU.

This is my dead core machine also recovered from that I still use at work today, this CPU has a dead core and will post 00 if BIOS is reset.

https://hwbot.org/submission/2807666_fugger_3dmark_vantage___performance_geforce_gtx_titan_x_72299_marks 

I have a 2600K that is also similar and recovers after warming up at post code 00 for a minute and 20 resets.

Once these CPU's are posted they will restart fine, its just when they sit again for a few hours they can return to 00.

After doing some research about modding the shunt resistor on GTX video cards to raise power limits, I decided to do skip the liquid metal part because the composition of this metal could damage the resistor/tin and there is also a chance that the liquid metal could drip off the shunt and short other components. But beware that this is basically a permanent mod and can hardly be reversed. Also, some soldering and electrical skills needed!

Figure 1

What I did is soldering another resistor parallelly on top of the shunt resistor. The reason for soldering a resistor parallelly instead of replacing is because we are working with a very low resistance (1mΩ = 0,001Ω), and putting your own calculated resistor with too much soldering tin will create an even bigger resistance where you can't know the exact resistance. Here you can see why:

 Figure 2 & 3

The two bigger pads are where the current is mostly running trough and two tiny pads that are connected to the power measurement circuit. It's important to keep the resistor as close as possible to the sensing pads for a more accurate measure.
I hear you thinking: but you are also raising the resistance if your soldering a resistor on top of it, isn't that the same? Not exactly, because if your value is not correct you can carefully solder it off and replace it with another value (I recommend to calculate it right at once). in brief, It's definitely an important aspect to think of if you are working with low resistance's.

As you can see in figure 1 I soldered a 6mΩ 1% resistor on top of the existing 2mΩ resistor, raising the card's power limit by 33%. I will explain how I calculated that.

I used the common formula for calculating parallel resistance :

 Figure 4

In my case, I wanted to raise a maximum of 33% of the power limit.

That's going to be: 2mOhm / 100% * 25% = 0.5mOhm subtracting that from 2mOhm = an Rtot of atleast 1,5mOhm.
Subtracting 25% from the resistor increases the power limit by 33%:

2 mOhm / 1,5 mOhm * 100% = 133%

R1 = 2mΩ
Rtot = 1,5mΩ 
We want to know R2 so the formula becomes:

 = 6mΩ

 Figure 5

After that, I assembled the card back together and tested it with Furmark.

Before the mod:

Figure 6

After the mod:

Figure 7

As you can see I gained a fair amount of core clock, and also the VDDC has more room to increase. I actually did need to lower the core overclock because it was running too fast and began to crash.
The tests were running quite short which is why the card was not running hot. 
But I'm not sensing any extreme temperatures on the longer runs (30 mins on 100% fan speed), but this could be that I used liquid metal on the GPU die:

Figure 8 & 9

Now, you can extend it further than 33% but be aware that your card can run very hot or even blow up. So if you are planning to do this, calculate the resistance well, use a more extreme cooling solution (like custom water cooling) and keep a good eye on the temps so that the risks are minimalized.
After all, it's a limit to protect the card from breaking. Do it at your own risk.

Thank you for your time, I hope it was helpful. I will start shortly on my first hardline water cooling build which I will post pictures of too.

Yours sincerely,

Graxx

Sorry for my bad English, I'm dutch.

My sources:

Google is your best friend

der8auer's video:

Please note before anyone thinks about attempting this themselves consider that I have added a few mods to help with thermals:

• There is liquid metal on the die which should only be done if it's a copper or nickel heatsink. Mine is copper.
• GP-Extreme 12W/mK thermal pads are practically everywhere and specifically added between the back of the PCB and the backplate.
• Both GP-Extreme pads and a spare heatsink were added on the VRM's, as you can see on the left of the first photo. This was non-existent on the card at stock.

I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND DOING THIS WITHOUT SOME SORT OF MODS LIKE THESE. Most of EVGA's 1660Ti's do not come with any sort of thermal heatsink for any of the chips besides the core. I don't know if it's the same for any other cards on the market so your mileage may vary. At the very least use LM on the die and help out the VRM's somehow. If you're using watercooling with heatsinks over the VRM's you should be fine.

Why did I do it and you should too?

The 1660 Ti's power limit is honestly pathetic. A max of 130W with EVGA's line is very low in comparison to most other cards like it. This card *is* designed to be mid-tier and low power consumption after all. However, this is really bad when it comes to overclocking.
Under full load the core frequency severely droops purely because of this limit even on LM. When it should be hitting 2115Mhz, it's down to 1995Mhz. The core wants to go higher but it needs moar powah to do so. But the card's limit won't allow this effectively telling the core to calm the heck down. This was not kosher.
With my card I knew I could push the core further than it was limited to. Under certain loads and brief periods of time I was able to watch it stay in those higher frequencies. Not once did it artifact while it was up there. This was not a matter of the die reaching the limit of the silicon's quality.
So how does one increase the power limit on a card like this? That's where a shunt mod comes in.

Results:

NOTE: The thermal mods I mentioned above were used in all sets of data, both before and after the mod. Meaning these differences are purely from modding the shunt resistor only.

My max overclock both before and after is +135core and +1290mem.

Before: Max temp was 59*C. Time Spy graphics score was 6952. 45.01fps in test one. 40.1fps in test two. My frequency would droop quite a bit under load once it got demanding. Power would max out constantly to 100%.

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/43156127?

After: Max temp is 72*C. Time Spy graphics score is 7125. 45.74fps in test one. 41.41fps in test two. Frequency and voltage actually stays in the max (2085-2115Mhz @ ~1.093V) through the entire load. Power is only using around 70-80% of reported total.

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/43131116?

I was also able to further push the overclock to +150 on the core. (It's actually a tad bit further than this using frequency/voltage curve tweaks but that's a topic for another time) The memory did not change. This gave me an overall Time Spy point increase of 7219 making an overall 267 points gain just from a shunt mod!

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/43239916?

To further make sure it worked I ran several extended cycles of Heaven, Superposition, Firestrike, Hitman's benchmark (my personal favorite since it shows particle artifacts before anything else), and played Witcher 3 and BL3 without any artifacts, hitches, frequency or voltage drops. Even Furmark ran ok maxing temps at 82*C.

So as we can see it was quite the success. It's using all the power it needs to keep the core clocks at a higher frequency throughout the tests. This means better performance overall. Most games got a 5-10fps gain on max settings 1080p. The temperatures went up, but that's actually a good thing since it means we know it's working. It's not close to hitting the thermal limit so it's never going to be a problem.

(PS: The wire's insulation looks as cruddy as it does because I had to set my iron to 500* because it was sinking heat like crazy. Couldn't melt the solder otherwise. And honestly the photo really makes the solder job look bad in general. Looks much better in person)

(Important PPS I learned elsewhere later: A direct wire shunt mod like this typically doesn't work without any resistance. The card might go into a sort of "safe" mode causing the core frequency to crash. If your card doesn't work with a direct wire then try using a resistor of low value to short it instead.

In hindsight, I wasn't using a copper wire, it was probably silver or something like that, which may have added resistance. Also, there might still be a bit of current going through the existing resistor as is so that may have helped. So with these two things in mind it may have had some sort of resistance after all and I got lucky.

However, it should be of note adding resistance may not even be required for this card at all. This mod has hardly been done so we don't really know yet. The only other user I've been able to find on the web who's done this mod did a resistor decrease as you can see here: https://www.overclock.net/forum/69-nvidia/1731568-1660ti-shunt-mod-success.html)

since a few of you may have a 2080ti kingpin i wanted to share with you my solution on using the card in a daily custom watecooled pc.

The issue is that if you remove the original cooler and mount a vga only cooler or something like this memory wont be cooled anymore. 

My solution was to modify a EK WB VGA only waterblock so it fit s the gpu with the mem cooling plate on.

With a CNC i milled the cooling plate of the  block to 37x37mm On the sides I milled 1,5mm deep. 

The result looks like this:  and temps are great!   The only thing you need then is new mounting screws. I took some M3 with nuts.

Am I just better suited going with a X399M or Zenith Extreme  Alpha? Both seem to have good LN2 support, or am I really doing something wrong here.