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  1. Ok, I got it sorted out, I had to turn off the core voltage monitoring in the UEFI bios, afterwards I was able to boot with over 1.525V, i reached 5000Mhz with about 1.6V. So goal reached 👍 I have not decided what I want to do next, getting a CPU pot is pretty much set, in my opinion 200€ just for a pot is too much, I searched a few metal sellers online and I came up with this thing (see attached image), the base is 5cm diameter, 3cm thick and the holes 2cm deep. The green thing is a copper pipe with almost 3mm thickness, for sure this cannot beat any industrial produced pot, but it is way cheaper. Overall it d set me back 70€. But what to overclock with it, my i5 is pretty bad, i mean1.6V for 5000Mhz?!
  2. I do not want to use it 24/7 with this kind of clocks, I set a second profile in the uefi with almost stock speeds, so whenever i want to play or browse the internet, I am using this one. And i think i ran into a wall with the method "add multi and add vcore" - PC doesnt boot with 1.53V "CPU over voltage", it boots with 1.525V. That is why I changed the clock speed, I want more. Anyway, I ran into some weird problem with XTE (see picture): XTE says the base clock is at 99.5, but "in real" it is set to 102 in the bios? And there is big spike in the chart, i marked it with an arrow. Lets say I want more power and I do not really care about the CPU [and the mainboard], should i try other ratios? I had a look at the rankings, sometimes you can find things like 80 base clock with a multiplier of way over 50.
  3. So, here we go again... 4700MHz with 1.42V.... Temps are between 60 and 65°C at 100%. Voltage is still set to "manual mode", is it ok to just leave it like that or should I go with offset mode or adaptive? As I understood it from reading things: adaptive only affects turbo mode and offset always adds the given voltage, so offset is probably the best? As a overall goal I want to reach 5000MHz stable (is it realistic?). I read a lot, I can just continue adding voltage and multiplier, but there is a lot of other stuff, should I try something else? I actually tried setting the LLC to Level 4 - that did not go well, a few weird things like freezes or windows crashing, any suggestions why? With level 5 it is stable.
  4. I received the conductonaut liquid metal today and started with well... frustration. It is not possible to remove the cooler without removing the whole motherboard. So, I removed the whole motherboard and started deliding the CPU with a razor. One edge was sitting pretty close to the PCB, so it got scraped a bit there. I poured a little bit of conductonaut on a sheet of paper and slowly put it on the CPU and the heatspreader, I did not bother with glouing the heatspreader on again, CPU mount has to be enough. Afterwards I put everything back and thankfully it started right up. I ran Prime 95 for 45 minutes right now, it did not crash and the temperatures are about 10 °C lower, while the power consumption rose almost 20Watts. I am actually pretty happy, I did not mess up the CPU, I did not pour LM all over the PCB and the results are - in my opinion - acceptable. So, later today I ll try to go up to 4600MHz. edit: 4600MHz running with 1.37V quite a bump...
  5. Hello Leeghoofd, the news for today: I searched the uefi for the AVX offset - sadly i couldnt find anything, so i updated the bios, still no AVX. I tried the 4.5ghz with 1.33V and that runs still stable after 2 hours of prime95 - and even CS is not crashing. So, about the CPU cooler, i had a look in to the case manuel, it can fit a 194mm CPU cooler or two 360mm radiator(s). If i want to use a air cooler, i can either use a be quiet dark rock pro 4 or a noctua DH15. I would probably preffer the be quiet cooler, because the noctua would just look ugly af in my case. And I had a look into AIO water cooling systems, be quiets silent loop 360 looks nice, but has some bad reviews about pump failture. Any AIO recommendations? (perhaps not too flashy... i am not into into the whole RGB thing...) I dont want to spend more than 200€, so custom water cooling is out of price range. And when i am replacing the cooler, i ll delid the CPU as well and replace intels thermal paste with liquid metal. lg dessy edit: after the BIOS upgrade the mainbaord thinks the Case fans are the CPU fan and the CPU fan is the case fan, i have to look into this one...
  6. Hello, I started overclocking my i5-6600k today, I got to 4.5ghz at 1.3vcore, it ran prime95 stable for about 1 hour, afterwards I went to 4.6Ghz, the CPU didnt like it at all, I tried 1.3, 1.31, 1.32 and 1.33 vcore, it booted, but windows crashed every time. So I went with 4.5ghz 1.3vcore for further testing, everything is fine except CS:GO, it crashed a few times and I went back to 4.4ghz with 1.3vcore, which is running nicely. I had some weird RAM read/write errors [with the 4.5 setting], but they were gone after 2 restarts and did not happen again until now. Overview of the changed values: Multiplier is set to 44. Vcore is set to 1.3. LLC at level5 - as far as i get it, LLC brings the full load voltage and the idle voltage closer together, so i could just set it to the max, sacrificing a bit of CPU life, right? CPU Core/Cache Current Limit max is set to the maximum. So 4.4ghz is good, but this is the first attempt, i am pretty sure it can do more. But where do i go now? More vcore and try a multiplier of 46? I have not touched the BCLK at all, should i mess with it? I read the BCLK will mess with sata connection and the built-in sound card and so on, that would be pretty bad. The other hardware, which is probably interesting at some point: Mainboard: asus Z170 pro [it is not the 'pro gaming' one] RAM: 2x8GB DDR4 G.Skill with 3000mhz [intel XMP activated] GPU: 1070 Zotac amp extreme PSU: be quiet powerzone 750W SSD: 2 Samsung SSDs HDD: 4HDDs, 3x 3,5" 1x 2,5" CPU Fan: be quiet dark rock topflow CPU: i5 6600k skylake (obvious...) Case: some phanteks one with windows Fans: 2x 140mm (front) 1x 120mm (back) The most interesting thing is probably the CPU cooler, be quiet states it can handle up to 220W TDP - should not be the problem, compared to most of the other CPU cooler it looks weird, but i could not fit a bigger one into my old case, so... Temperature should not be a problem as well, the fans are barely running and it never went over 80 degrees celsius. So main questions: - might reinstalling CS/other games fix the crash issue? - what should i try next? There are a lot of options, more vcore with 4.6? Like 1.35? - LLC to the max? - mess with the BCLK? - is the CPU cooler or other hardware the bottleneck? - am i doing something completly wrong? lg Dessy edit: as this is skylake the thermal paste intel used is pretty bad, should i change that one? If yes: is liquid metal a good option? I do not want to change the liquid metal every year, removing and mounting the CPU cooler is a pain.
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