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I am hosting a Dual Core Athlon Competition! Here is my video describing the competition. I will also post the rules here. Rules 1. Dual core Athlon CPU's only 2. DDR1, DDR2, and DDR3 platforms only 3. All benchmarks must be submitted on HWbot using their rules and include a rig pic 4. Water or air cooling only - no sub-ambient cooling 5. All submissions must be done within the month of May 2022 6. No core or cache unlocking Benchmarks - Cinebench r15 - HWbot x265 1080p - superpi 32m Other - K8 CPUs will be in their own category, while all other Athlon's will be in a category together - Participants must use the same CPU for all benchmarks, and therefor will only be ably to participate in one of the CPU categories - Each benchmark will have a winner for each category, which means each participant can win at most 3 of the 6 categories - Use official Competition wallpaper! The Official wallpaper for this competition

Im just looking to buy any kind of Ram ln2 pot. New, used or whatever. Doesnt matter just want to make my memory cold!

This is a guide on how to raise the target power limit of your GTX 1080 with a resistor mod. In my case, I used an EVGA GTX 1080 FE. Your card can differ from mine. I am new to forums (actually this is my first informative post) so I hope it'll help you. Feedback always welcome! After doing some research about modding the shunt resistor on GTX video cards to raise power limits, I decided to do skip the liquid metal part because the composition of this metal could damage the resistor/tin and there is also a chance that the liquid metal could drip off the shunt and short other components. But beware that this is basically a permanent mod and can hardly be reversed. Also, some soldering and electrical skills needed! Figure 1 What I did is soldering another resistor parallelly on top of the shunt resistor. The reason for soldering a resistor parallelly instead of replacing is because we are working with a very low resistance (1mΩ = 0,001Ω), and putting your own calculated resistor with too much soldering tin will create an even bigger resistance where you can't know the exact resistance. Here you can see why: Figure 2 & 3 The two bigger pads are where the current is mostly running trough and two tiny pads that are connected to the power measurement circuit. It's important to keep the resistor as close as possible to the sensing pads for a more accurate measure. I hear you thinking: but you are also raising the resistance if your soldering a resistor on top of it, isn't that the same? Not exactly, because if your value is not correct you can carefully solder it off and replace it with another value (I recommend to calculate it right at once). in brief, It's definitely an important aspect to think of if you are working with low resistance's. As you can see in figure 1 I soldered a 6mΩ 1% resistor on top of the existing 2mΩ resistor, raising the card's power limit by 33%. I will explain how I calculated that. I used the common formula for calculating parallel resistance : Figure 4 In my case, I wanted to raise a maximum of 33% of the power limit. That's going to be: 2mOhm / 100% * 25% = 0.5mOhm subtracting that from 2mOhm = an Rtot of atleast 1,5mOhm.Subtracting 25% from the resistor increases the power limit by 33%:2 mOhm / 1,5 mOhm * 100% = 133% R1 = 2mΩ Rtot = 1,5mΩ We want to know R2 so the formula becomes: = 6mΩ Figure 5 After that, I assembled the card back together and tested it with Furmark. Before the mod: Figure 6 After the mod: Figure 7 As you can see I gained a fair amount of core clock, and also the VDDC has more room to increase. I actually did need to lower the core overclock because it was running too fast and began to crash. The tests were running quite short which is why the card was not running hot. But I'm not sensing any extreme temperatures on the longer runs (30 mins on 100% fan speed), but this could be that I used liquid metal on the GPU die: Figure 8 & 9 Now, you can extend it further than 33% but be aware that your card can run very hot or even blow up. So if you are planning to do this, calculate the resistance well, use a more extreme cooling solution (like custom water cooling) and keep a good eye on the temps so that the risks are minimalized. After all, it's a limit to protect the card from breaking. Do it at your own risk. Thank you for your time, I hope it was helpful. I will start shortly on my first hardline water cooling build which I will post pictures of too. Yours sincerely, Graxx Sorry for my bad English, I'm dutch. My sources: Google is your best friend der8auer's video:

Hello, I am trying to overclock an Intel Xeon E5-2690, every time I touch any parameter the pc turns off and the bios goes off, when I try to play the multiplier of all cores, it just lets me modify it to 29, when the processor alone he overclocked at 38. Someone to help me, I've seen him at 4ghz

Hello, I just recently tested two Galax OC Lab Edition RTX 2080 Ti in NVLink and on Waterblock with no Liquid Nitrogen the card passed Time Spy Extreme benchmark with 2115 Mhz on Ambient Tempetature. I was expecting 2200 Mhz or 2250 Mhz. https://youtu.be/39A7sRVzWi8 Does anyone know if removing these jumpers removes the Nvidia Power Limit on this GPU? I am including a picture as an attachment. Thank you, -Miguel

The title pretty much sums up what im looking for. This is what im running, totally new to overclocking but my set up is pretty beast. i know this is a benchmark but its the only way i know how to show my rig without typing it all out. Intel Core i7-8700K CPU @ 4400.0MHz - 2354 XTU marks on HWBOT

Hi Guys, This is my 2nd attempt at OCing a rig. My 1st one was a 3930k and I tried overclocking it to 4.1Ghz and it is solid, never skipped a beat. my second rig is a 1950x that goes like this: CPU: 1950x Threadripper with coolant spread as per Gamer Nexus advised pattern COOLER: NZXT Kraken x62 MOBO: x399 Gigabyte AORUS RAM: 4x16Gb (64Gb) Corsair Vengeance 3200C16R PSU: Corsair CS850M 850w VIDEOCARD: GeForce GTX 670 (yes, laugh! ) I tried everything, can't even OC the RAM to the XMP level by flicking the RAM XMP switch in the BIOS. 1st sign of mucking around with the RAM Speed and I am stuck in reboot loops ad infinitum. I got the CPU running from 3.4 to 4.0 fairly stable, just upped the vcore to 1.25V and left all else automatic, just changing the clock multiplier. It's just a pity I can't up the memory a little more, as it seems that the Zen Family are mem bandwidth hogs in order to get high scores in benchmarks. Do you guys know of a guide to go about at experimenting a little more with this setup? I am a bit lost, as I can't find a forum talking about this setup with clarity. My Cinebench is below 2800cb and Corona Benchmark 1.3 sits at a depressing 5.6 Million Rays/s I see guys having well above 3000cb and 6.5Million rays in Corona benchmark 1.3 so I suppose I must be doing something wrong...

Hi everyone First time poster and rookie/aspiring overclocker here. I've been playing around with the idea of overclocking my i5 2500K as it's starting to show it's age, at least when it comes to gaming, and I've always used the CPU at stock settings with Intel Turbo Boost enabled. I figured I would attempt the "oh-so-easy" 4.5GHz overclock that I have seen on practically every 2500K OC thread, but I seem to have run into a bit of trouble as both IntelBurnTest (5 runs, maximum stress) and Prime95 (Blend) indicate that the system is not stable. Please note that I would like to run a 24/7 OC if at all possible. I've included an image of the IBT run that was done at 4.5GHz and 1.35v, and as you can see, the instability is NOT due to high temps at all since the highest temp was core 2 at 70C. I have tried increasing the vcore to 1.4v but the problem persists. Any advice that you guys may have will be greatly appreciated! All changes were made through the BIOS and are shown below. Relevent system specs are listed below: i5 2500K Corsair H80i v2 AIO Gigabyte Z77-D3H G.Skill Ares F3-1600C9D (2x4GB) Seasonic SnowSilent 750W Phanteks Eclipse P400S P.S. I'm running the above settings with no BSOD up to this point.

I found posts with motherboard/bios updates for several manufacturers that support/enable non K skylake chip overclocking, my laptop is a Eluktronics P670RP6 (a rebranding of a clevo P670RP6) with a core i7 6700HQ and a GTX 1060. Does anyone have any tips or info to provide in how I would go about enabling BCLK settings or non K overclocking of this processor in my laptop? I'm familiar with software overclocking and some bios overclocking in the past once I get the settings enabled but not sure how to go about that. Any info would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

Trying to OC my i5 6500 but will not go pass the base clock. Can someone help? Bios is at version F5e. I tried F5c and F5b and still the same result. Operating System: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit (10.0, Build 14393) (14393.rs1_release_sec.170327-1835) System Manufacturer: Gigabyte Technology Co., Ltd. System Model: Z170MX-Gaming 5 BIOS: BIOS Date: 07/13/16 16:55:50 Ver: 05.0000B Processor: Intel® Core i5-6500 CPU @ 3.20GHz (4 CPUs), ~3.2GHz Memory: 16384MB RAM GPU: Gigabyte G1 GTX 1070 8GB VRAM

Trying to OC my i5 6500 but will not go pass the base clock. Can someone help? Operating System: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit (10.0, Build 14393) (14393.rs1_release_sec.170327-1835) System Manufacturer: Gigabyte Technology Co., Ltd. System Model: Z170MX-Gaming 5 BIOS: BIOS Date: 07/13/16 16:55:50 Ver: 05.0000B Processor: Intel® Core i5-6500 CPU @ 3.20GHz (4 CPUs), ~3.2GHz Memory: 16384MB RAM GPU: Gigabyte G1 GTX 1070 8GB VRAM

Hello, guys! This is my first post... My name is Georgi, I'm 24 years old and im a hobbyist overclocker. Decided to get into the real world of overclocking by entering my favourite OC website Now about my post... I decided to build myself a water chiller and overclock... But then I bumped into a stop. While I was trying to reach 5ghz on a X5660 Xeon, the motherboard bottlenecked me at 221 "Host Clock Frequency". I am 99% sure it's the motherboard. Why: -> I have isolated the ram and cpu and the mobo crashes at 221-22. -> I did not see an entry with a higher hcf than what I manage to reach. -> I am actively cooling the motherboard with air. -> I am supplying more than enough steady current with a high end power supply. -> I am supplying more than enough voltage (I even maxed out the IOH and QPI/Uncore voltage) -> I am not using the watter chiller yet, I just turn it on to cooldown the water from time to time - no condensation. -> I am using the latest BIOS. -> I have tried different memory and CPU's. Even a new GPU. -> I have been moving my overclock with 4Mhz increments steadily and logged my every attempt untill I hit this wall. I managed to reach 4.71Ghz and hit the wall. -> I hit 4.71 on 221fsb. CPU voltage was as low as possible. I ran ~10 minutes prime95 and one of the cores was stopped due to an error in Prime. I increaced voltage on the CPU first -> same thing. I increaced the voltage of the ram and IOH + QPI/uncore (even maxed them out) - same thing. I eliminated the memory out of the equasion - same thing. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So... Does this confirm my dislike towards intel? Did they intentionally cap their extreme series motherboard, to overclock only their "Extreme series" processors? Is the board really that bad as they say it is? Any suggestions are strongly appreciated.

http://www.techpowerup.com/gpuz/ed2wp/ Limited by rivatuner's limits. Can you find the little secret in this oc?