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Test of Thermal pastes for the DIE on Skylake - Or the ICE-BALL Challenge


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Hey GUYS!

 

I did a lot of testings the last weeks...

Spent more than 150L of LN2, hopefully to help you guys, not doing the wrong TIM on your Skylake DIE ;)

 

My testsystem is:

  • Asus M8G
  • Kingston HyperX Predator 8GB 3300C16 @ 3000C11
  • Seasonic 1200W Platinum
  • Intel skylake 6600K ES
  • Der8auer BEAST as container for the CPU

 

What have I done?

 

I put all the following TIMs on the DIE of the CPU. On the Intel HS I always used Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut!

 

TIMs I've used:

  • Innovation Coling Diamand 7 Carat
  • Prolimatech PK1
  • Prolimatech PK3
  • Thermal Grizzly Hydronaut
  • Junpus DX-1
  • EK Ecotherm
  • Gelid GC-Extreme
  • Noctua NH-1
  • Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut

Then I went into Windows 7 64bit with the following settings:

 

5200/5200 on the core/cahce

 

Voltages:

  • Vcore: 1,75V (just to be sure, to generate enough heat)
  • VDIMM: 1.6V
  • Core PLL: 1.8V
  • DMI: 1.37V
  • VCCIO: 1.3V
  • PLL Termination: 1.6V
  • Standby Voltage: 1.5V
  • Bandwith: 6

Temperature measured with the ASUS Batmobile (OC-Panel 2)

 

For each TIM I've tested it twice with de-mounting and renewing all the TIM!

Then I did two several tests. Finding the "Crack-Point" in idle and on load (Cinebench R15)!

The "Crack-Point", I call it Ice-Ball point, cause it sounds (it is truly hearable!!!) like the little Ice-Ball which you have to crack in Taiwanese menthol cigarettes, when the TIM reaches its lowest temperature, before it looses contact to the POT, IHS or DIE. For me it looks like it's a matter of bonding agent (I don't know the right expression in english! I mean the fluid, that makes the TIM more or less fluent). When this "bonding agent" gets too cold, then it starts to get hard and cracks because of the different coefficients of expansion between silicium and copper.

 

You can reproduce cracks when you are on heavy load and the pot is very cold and your cpu crashes. Then the silicium turns from approximately minus 20 degrees to minus 160 within a milisecond!

The copper from the pot and the IHS already has its typical size for this kind of temperature, but the silicium changes it right now, which makes it much smaller compared to the size it has while load!

 

The most important thing is the follwing; mount your pot as tight as it goes! At least, that's what I found out!

 

Now you wanna know which TIM is the best (I can only name the pastes I've tested, so if one is missing, let me know, or if you're a TIM vendor....send me!)

Here ya go:

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=3221&stc=1&d=1440992436

 

Please guys, share your experiences...I hope we can find THE right TIM soon!!!!

Right now it is Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut!

Edited by Massman
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  • Crew

We had the crack way earlier than -180. Depending on clock frequency/volts we could not even surpass -145°C before we lost it....

 

Ourt best temp region with Grizzly was between -125°C / -145°C max. If we lost contact best to torch till -40ish and then slowly build up the clocks/temp

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Thank you soo much Daniel San :D

This is a huge help for guys like me !!

 

Also this i did not understand what you meant .. ??

 

That's what I meant with....as tight as it goes

With 5 rounds of the screw...136

with 10 165

with 17 ( more is not possible) 185

 

Is this the temps you could bench at with the amount of rotations on the screws ?

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That's what I meant with....as tight as it goes

With 5 rounds of the screw...136

with 10 165

with 17 ( more is not possible) 185

 

...

Did you use the springs or no need for them ?

...

 

-> 17 rounds without spring.... that's tight indeed :D

 

Thanks for sharing ;)

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  • 3 weeks later...

How do you guys get the kryonaut to such low temps without cracking? Tried Z170 on LN2 for the first time today and got the crack at -145. This was with my Kingpin EE with supertight mount! Springs fully compressed. And they are quiet sturdy...

 

Do you use a thin or a little thicker layer?

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How do you guys get the kryonaut to such low temps without cracking? Tried Z170 on LN2 for the first time today and got the crack at -145. This was with my Kingpin EE with supertight mount! Springs fully compressed. And they are quiet sturdy...

 

Do you use a thin or a little thicker layer?

 

depends how aggressively you pour. you have to go super slowly. if you want to go over crack point you must have 1 degree increments past the "noisy" point of the pot.

it also depends where you mount your probe and what equipment you use, maybe you are at -160 compared to other guys. So there are many factors. But for me to get no crack is very clean die and hs , then apply one line on the die, mount ihs, then one line on the ihs, mount pot with moderate settings, i dont like tight :P.

 

Excellent thread and work daniel, awesome!

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