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Solution for cracking paste on delidded cpus.


phil
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Me and FireKiller had a hard time when playing with our delidded 6600K because of the paste cracking in different temperatures between -140 and -160 depending on many things like pot mounting and paste dryness.

The solution came with glueing back the HS to the cpu. We used a black adhesive from 3M made for bonding metal with rubber.

We applied the adhesive on the HS and then after putting it back on the cpu,we reinstaled the cpu into the motherboard socket and locked it to make it firm.

We left it dry(without use) for a day.Today was the first quick try and everything worked great.No sign of cracks till -180 (didn't try lower) and the cpu was performing great.

Hope this helps others that have the same problem.

I attach a photo of the adhesive we used.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=3419&stc=1&d=1445718424

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Just a note; we tried Gelid, Grizzly and other pastes from Mx2 to JunPus, and we would get the cracking issue every single time (we dont tight the screws to avoid bending the cpu) between -140 C and - 165 C as Phil wrote.

 

Glue-ing the IHS back to the PCB seems to help reducing the mounting pressure that used to go all through the paste - which should cause the cracking issue. :)

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Clean all contact areas with aceton, use kryonaut and mount really tight works well for me. Been benching six sessions straight at -170 and below with no crack. Last time I didn't even reapply tim on die, just left cpu mounted in socket and it worked as well.

 

But you use kryonaut as tim and then seal with glue?

Edited by Rauf
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Thank for the share.

 

can u cut it off again when paste degrades again?

 

I used this to reseal my CPU

 

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Permatex-Black-Silicone-Adhesive-Sealant/16879902

 

But, I wasn't satisfied with the TIM job (big temp disparity between cores), so I cut it off & redid the TIM. Was easier than cutting through stock Intel adhesive.

 

Just remember to give the sealant enough time to dry (24 hrs), for the first few hours, its easy to disorient the IHS because the sealant hasn't dried.

Edited by rtsurfer
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ya I think without resealing the ihs, the hold down brkt and the pot push the ihs really hard against the die and I think this is causing me some issues. Going to try and reseal.

 

I had a lot of luck last night by letting the paste crack and then looping xtu. it's so wierd because at first temps go to like +60c but without even adding nitrogen, each run the temps get colder and colder. So I did it until they weren't positive anymore and then really slowly bring temps back down, I try to only pour while under load and I pour really slowly.

 

it helped a lot last night because a cpu that was only doing 5.9ghz hwbot prime did 6.3ghz last night. I was able to get a bunch of runs in at around -170c and then it would crack again but looping xtu helps. Thanks to Splave for suggestion.

 

I had one point last night at 1.85v and the tim cracked and one core was hitting 100c even though the pot was around -140c, this platform definitely takes some getting used to.

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Hahaha are we now back to the "let it crack"-times? Last time this went around was GTX 580 fully loaded xD

 

Interesting to see 3M here - knowing them from several professional / industrial stuff like car wrapping foil and adhesives...

when it comes to special chemicals they sometimes have some really interesting things...

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Thank for the share.

 

 

 

I used this to reseal my CPU

 

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Permatex-Black-Silicone-Adhesive-Sealant/16879902

 

But, I wasn't satisfied with the TIM job (big temp disparity between cores), so I cut it off & redid the TIM. Was easier than cutting through stock Intel adhesive.

 

Just remember to give the sealant enough time to dry (24 hrs), for the first few hours, its easy to disorient the IHS because the sealant hasn't dried.

 

I have found that this version works a little better for me, it's made for high temps and creates a good "seal" aka gasket without the need to be too thick. I've had no problems removing it to refresh my tim. I install the sealant, install the lid, let it sit for an hour and then clamp it down in an unused motherboard to cure for 24 hours. Just like it says in the directions

 

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Permatex-Ultra-Black-Hi-Temp-RTV-Silicone-Gasket-Maker/16777009

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I have found that this version works a little better for me, it's made for high temps and creates a good "seal" aka gasket without the need to be too thick. I've had no problems removing it to refresh my tim. I install the sealant, install the lid, let it sit for an hour and then clamp it down in an unused motherboard to cure for 24 hours. Just like it says in the directions

 

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Permatex-Ultra-Black-Hi-Temp-RTV-Silicone-Gasket-Maker/16777009

 

I went with the other one, because

 

1) It was cheaper

2) Didnt know if this Ultra stuff would be too hard to remove or not.

 

Good to know that it works just the same.

 

Thanks.

Edited by rtsurfer
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I went with the other one, because

 

1) It was cheaper

2) Didnt know if this Ultra stuff would be too hard to remove or not.

 

Good to know that it works just the same.

 

Thanks.

 

 

I bought the one you mentioned. Do you think it's good enough and does the job? Should I grab the other one instead or were you satisfied with yours. Will you try the other?

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I bought the one you mentioned. Do you think it's good enough and does the job? Should I grab the other one instead or were you satisfied with yours. Will you try the other?

Haven't had any issues with mine, except they could have included a better applicator. But this can be improvised. And the other one comes with the same applicator too.

 

Not going to try the other one, unless something happens to this whole tube that I got or someone comes up with a drastic difference.

 

Tbh its just a sealant, I don't expect an earth shattering differences between the choices.

 

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

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Haven't had any issues with mine, except they could have included a better applicator. But this can be improvised. And the other one comes with the same applicator too.

 

Not going to try the other one, unless something happens to this whole tube that I got or someone comes up with a drastic difference.

 

Tbh its just a sealant, I don't expect an earth shattering differences between the choices.

 

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

 

ya I here ya, just figured I would ask, thanks. Tried it out last night, I put it back in the clam shell after which seemed to be a nice way to keep it tight while drying, I just hope I did it evenly.

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ya I here ya, just figured I would ask, thanks. Tried it out last night, I put it back in the clam shell after which seemed to be a nice way to keep it tight while drying, I just hope I did it evenly.

 

Another good (perhaps better?) option would be to put it in the socket and latch it. It seems like it would hold it tighter.

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Very nice of you to share this.

I did tons of hours of testing to avoid that crack also. For me glueing back the IHS did not change anything.

I think we need to do 3 or 4 complete full pot session without any crack before saying anything... I thought I found the trick a couple of time, but it was pure luck. Next session, the crack happened again :(

I am on something at the moment... need to try again an again before going public. It has to do with IHS.....

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Another good (perhaps better?) option would be to put it in the socket and latch it. It seems like it would hold it tighter.

That would actually be bad, because while tightening the hold down, it will slide the IHS forward.

 

A better option that I did a couple of days ago was to put the CPU on top of a few layers of paper towels on a flat table & then put my F1 Dark on top of it.

 

The paper towels are there because of the capacitors on the bottom of CPU, which prevent us from putting it, by itself, on a flat surface.

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I had my best luck last night with thick paste. I glued back the ihs. I lightly dropped the ihs onto the sealant and then put it into the clamshell but just pushed enough to close it and even out the ihs. So I made sure that there was a nice amount of paste in between the ihs and die. The paste was cracking everytime with thin paste.

 

Last night I was benching -170c for hours and it didn't crack a single time. I also took the cleaning pad that comes with clu paste and I scratched up the underside of the ihs, maybe that helped also.

 

Another good way to simulate re-sealing with a thick layer of paste is to - take some strips of electrical tape and make a square around the die and place the ihs on the tape. It helps to keep from sliding and gives it just enough height to have some thicker paste underneath, 2 layers might even be better.

 

Here is a result from last night to show I'm not just talking and it really worked nicely.

 

1080

Edited by Strong Island
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