lysaer

Awesome, I will break out the heated tweezers tonight probably and get a couple off and measure them. Really appreciate that der8auer

Thanks for the info der8auer and the offer. Are all the resistors on the back in that area of the same value ? If so I will just remove another one and measure it Is there a specific name for that type and size of resistor I should look for, I'll have a check for one on RS electronics website ?

Having fixed it once already I have now managed to kill it once again, this time i was slotting it into the case and caught two of the SMD's on the back and knocked them off. Anyone know what they are as I can't seem to find them anywhere in my case, they seem to have vanished, so I will just order some from rs or farnell. http://www.the-grand-line.com/hwbot/20130924_233900.jpg Thank in advance all

It's all already taped up safely and blocks are on :-( And I'm never ever ever taking the ek bridge off again, getting those o-ring gaskets on was worse than soldering on the cap, it took me like 2 hours to get all 6 in place lol. Haven't had time to test it still though was at the theatre last night seeing Wicked, but I'm confident in my soldering skills so all should be good

It's all soldered back together, I haven't had a chance to test it yet but I'm confident it's all fine. I opted to solder 2 wires parallel to the board pointing upwards so they ended in between where the gap is between the capacitors, then I mounted the capacitor there. It was easier than trying to fiddle with the leg next to the choke. It came out pretty neat, I <3 my flux pen. EK block is on and I will give it a test Sunday as I am off to the gf's tonight. Thanks a lot for all the help everyone I'll let you know if it's all good Monday most likely.

Before I go soldering this on the wrong way, which way onto the PCB should this cap go? Thanks in advance

I'm fairly confident I can solder another one on, I don't run with ln2 but I do like to run high overclocks with my chiller

lol i a not that great at identifying anything lol, i am pretty good at soldering though

ok cool, it's a bit awkward anyways as it is right next to the large grey chip which I think is a VRM, so actually getting the iron in there is a real pain, it is the capacitor fourth from the bottom

go for zombie ? I'm confuzzled Also I can't seem to desolder the copper legs from the PCB, would it be ok to solder a couple of pieces of wire on the original copper legs then solder the new capacitor to the wire ? Do I need to use a specific wire or does it just need to make sure it can handle 2.5v ? Thanks again all

either of these ok then ? http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/tantalum-capacitors/7372838/ http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/tantalum-capacitors/0147639/

I'll have a look on the rs electronics site now Thanks a lot guys

Used some thermal epoxy to hold some heatsinks onto the card, as I was removing one it pulled the IC off, the legs are still on the board, but it doesn't look like i can solder it back onto the IC. does anyone know what these IC's are and where to get them, I tried googling the code but nothing came up http://postimg.org/image/6xsb4youb/ Thanks in advance

Hmm, I will give that a go today, since i can just disable each PCI-E slot on the R3E

Well I've done some reading and it looks like I might go ahead and try doing the cap mod, anyone know roughly what sort of gains I might see at 2560x1600 res ? also is the cap mod something that can be run on a daily usage gaming system ?