lysaer
-
Posts
16 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Blogs
Posts posted by lysaer
-
-
Thanks for the info der8auer and the offer.
Are all the resistors on the back in that area of the same value ?
If so I will just remove another one and measure it
Is there a specific name for that type and size of resistor I should look for, I'll have a check for one on RS electronics website ?
-
Having fixed it once already I have now managed to kill it once again, this time i was slotting it into the case and caught two of the SMD's on the back and knocked them off.
Anyone know what they are as I can't seem to find them anywhere in my case, they seem to have vanished, so I will just order some from rs or farnell.
http://www.the-grand-line.com/hwbot/20130924_233900.jpg
Thank in advance all
-
Photos!
It's all already taped up safely and blocks are on :-(
And I'm never ever ever taking the ek bridge off again, getting those o-ring gaskets on was worse than soldering on the cap, it took me like 2 hours to get all 6 in place lol.
Haven't had time to test it still though was at the theatre last night seeing Wicked, but I'm confident in my soldering skills so all should be good
-
It's all soldered back together, I haven't had a chance to test it yet but I'm confident it's all fine.
I opted to solder 2 wires parallel to the board pointing upwards so they ended in between where the gap is between the capacitors, then I mounted the capacitor there. It was easier than trying to fiddle with the leg next to the choke.
It came out pretty neat, I <3 my flux pen.
EK block is on and I will give it a test Sunday as I am off to the gf's tonight.
Thanks a lot for all the help everyone I'll let you know if it's all good Monday most likely.
-
Before I go soldering this on the wrong way, which way onto the PCB should this cap go?
Thanks in advance
-
You can almost certainly run without that one capacitor. You'll have a tiny bit more ripple, but odds are it won't make a noticeable difference.just run without it, no problem
if you want to run with ln2 then solder a new capacitor on
I'm fairly confident I can solder another one on, I don't run with ln2 but I do like to run high overclocks with my chiller
-
That's a choke! That, the mosfets (the small, square black chips to the right of the chokes, and a few other components make up the VRM.
lol i a not that great at identifying anything lol, i am pretty good at soldering though
-
You can probably just stick this one right where the old one was and solder to the old legs. The solder used in the production of computer components has much higher melting temperatures than standard solder. If you want to work with it well, a hot air station is the best.
ok cool, it's a bit awkward anyways as it is right next to the large grey chip which I think is a VRM, so actually getting the iron in there is a real pain, it is the capacitor fourth from the bottom
-
Best place to get a quick answer, great reflex ...but go for zombie ^^
go for zombie ? I'm confuzzled
Also I can't seem to desolder the copper legs from the PCB, would it be ok to solder a couple of pieces of wire on the original copper legs then solder the new capacitor to the wire ? Do I need to use a specific wire or does it just need to make sure it can handle 2.5v ?
Thanks again all
-
-
I'll have a look on the rs electronics site now
Thanks a lot guys
-
Used some thermal epoxy to hold some heatsinks onto the card, as I was removing one it pulled the IC off, the legs are still on the board, but it doesn't look like i can solder it back onto the IC.
does anyone know what these IC's are and where to get them, I tried googling the code but nothing came up
http://postimg.org/image/6xsb4youb/
Thanks in advance
-
Have you tested all cards separately?
In 3-Way SLI, the maximum stable frequency is determined by the worst of all three cards. It's possible that one card just doesn't want to do 900MHz.
Hmm, I will give that a go today, since i can just disable each PCI-E slot on the R3E
-
Well I've done some reading and it looks like I might go ahead and try doing the cap mod, anyone know roughly what sort of gains I might see at 2560x1600 res ? also is the cap mod something that can be run on a daily usage gaming system ?
-
Hey all, new here, been overclocking and messing with computers for years.
trying to get my Tri setup to overclock a little more, would like to break the 900 barrier. The most I can get right now is
core 875
mem 1945
voltage 1.2
whenever I go over 875 i get a display has stopped responding error.
currently I have IOH/ICH @ 1.36/1.59v for both NB/SB, Everything is watercooled on independent loops, CPU, GPU's and NB/SB.
GPU temps max out at 52c under full load, CPU 52c and NB/SB 39c.
I have the unlocked bios on my cards allowing my voltage to go to a maximum of 1213 as displayed in afterburner and even with the voltage maxed I can't get past 875mhz.
I've tried dropping the mem down to stock and pushing the core up but still no luck.
Should i consider getting a bios to allow me to go higher than 1213 ?
Killed My Titan (Again)
in General hardware discussion
Posted
Awesome, I will break out the heated tweezers tonight probably and get a couple off and measure them.
Really appreciate that der8auer