The3DLink

Yeah, there was some sort of glitch on the submission page. Already gave someone the heads up to have that score removed and proper one exchanged.

I'm curious if anyone else has had their hardware delayed from Galax. Theres been some sort of production delay on my GPU pot, (GPU backplate as well, but obviously not necessary for benching). I spoke with Gary from Galax via email and he stated that if there's enough request by those affected that they would consider extending the contest deadline. Just looking to get a headcount on people who are still waiting on hardware.

Would your display come back without rebooting, or would you have to reboot? Could you bench at -120℃? I'm assuming the temp sensor bug is a per-sample phenomenon? I've seen some examples of this card being pulled-down below -75℃ without a hitch. And known workarounds, or do I have an LN2 potato?

Congratulations everyone! Some amazing numbers were posted, I expect to see some world records broken at GOC 2017. On a side note: Did anyone else's 1080Ti suffer from a CBB/CB? Regardless of container mounting or voltages set, video signal would cut out and PC would lock up @ -75℃ and not post exactly between -75℃ & -92℃. I could boot at -93 and below, but any 3D load @ would cause me to lose video signal. Signal would also cut out again at -130℃. Anyone experience anything similar?

Yes, way more thin than the other brands I've mentioned. (Which definitely makes it a lot easier to syringe) Also, as a follow up, it ended up cracking on the backside of the GPU for me somewhere between -100 to -130℃ during my 2nd pull-down with this application. Picture included. The Gardner Bender worked better for me. It has remained more flexible at low temps and sustained multiple pull-downs, however I did encounter some of the air cavities during application as Splave has mentioned. For me, I think it had more to do with using the included brush, as it goes on extremely thick and will pass over surface mount components and create a canopy of sorts. I had to go around with a smaller brush and pop some of them to get around the base of the bigger caps/components I haven't noticed any major capillary action with the GB/permatex brands but I definitely will keep a closer eye on all future mobos I prep.

When prepping my Apex IX for LN2 use, I decided to use some LET to coat nearly the entire board. I used a brand called Star Brite (mostly because it was the only brand at home depot that didn't come in black) and things appeared to be going great at first. I was using the brush method and switched to pouring once I got a feel for the consistency and had some more open board areas. Everything looked great.... at first. Upon removing the regular tape I had protecting the ram slots, I discovered that this product has some major capillary action (attraction) in some areas. It actually started to climb its way UP the slots, much higher than the poured or painted levels. It also occurred inside the CPU socket and up the pins. Luckily I caught it before levels rose to actually cover the contacts of anything, but there was one end where I had to pick/peel some out of a ram slot. This stuff removes rather easy, which was one of the perks to trying it out. I think I'll continue to use this stuff to coat GPUs but not MOBOs, or at least come up with a different technique (i.e. not near any socket with unsealed bottoms). Maybe put some eraser around the base of the sockets beforehand. Also to note: It could just be this brand as I've used other brands such as Permatex and Gardner Bender which are a lot thicker than the Star Brite brand and didn't seem to have this issue. YMMV

Just found out that Barrow and Bykski makes waterblocks for the 1080Ti HOF. They are much more reasonably priced than the Bitspower block(over $100 USD less for me at the time of this post). The really cool thing about the Barrow block is that it allows you to use/retain the HOF LCD. I've included some pics for those interested. Wish I saw this before I bought the Bitspower block. Couple things to note... it doesn't appear that the RGB strips have the proper connector to link it to the card (nothing a simple mod can't fix, but a weird oversight). Also, it doesn't seem to cover the chokes like the BP block. Finally, it doesn't state that it's compatible with the OC Labs Edition but I don't see any reason why it wouldn't be.

I believe those other two jumpers are for switching from drawing power from the PCI-E slot to the (3) x 8-Pins exclusively. I'm not sure on the first 4 you mentioned though, as I thought power limits/protections were removed with an XOC BIOS. I would contact websmile on here, he may be able to provide you with additional information.

Some changes were made to the PCB and components, when comparing the air-cooled and OC Lab Edition HOF cards (other than the obvious cooling solutions). The V-Core VRM caps have changed from 4V => 2.5V on the OC L.E. Also, some "input voltage monitor" jumpers have been added, as well as some additional jumpers for other purposes. Included are some shots of the OC L.E. Anyone spot/know of any other differences?

I'm looking for someone that might have a PCB layout/datasheet of the 1080Ti OC Lab Edition as well as info on the added power delivery jumper functions. I can infer what most of them do, but I'd like something a little more concrete. I'm planning on starting out with chilled water/dry ice and eventually LN2 as I get to know the cards better. I have both the 1080Ti OC Lab Edition as well as the Air-Cooled HOF. Does anyone know if previous NVVDD tools work with either of them, I haven't gotten a chance to test.

Hello, I was directed here from someone running Galax's OC Labs facebook page. I was told someone here can assist with obtaining PCB layout/datasheet of the 1080Ti OC Lab Edition as well as the power delivery jumper functions. I can infer what most of them do, but I'd like something a little more concrete. I've got the required hardware for GOC 2017 and plan on using dry ice and moving onto LN2 as I get to know the card better. Also, I'm assuming like my past 980Ti HOF there's separate tools/BIOS for enabling proper XOC voltage controls.