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(PTP) ShmoeMo

Home made dry ice / LN2 pot

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Hey guys, thought i would post the homemade DICE / LN2 pot that i designed and made. It starts with the base, it is a solid slug of copper that is 65mm x 50.8 that i purchased for 60 odd AUD on ebay after asking the seller if they could cut a custom length. I then had a 20mm hole drilled down the center of the slug about 45mm deep and the plan was to surround it with 10mm holes the same depth but that was quickly thwarted after finding out how hard copper is to drill as you will see in the pictures there is a smaller hole becasue i snapped a drill bit off in it, in total i broke 3 drill bits trying to drill this slug out but was able to get the other bits out. The copper pipe also has an OD of 50.8mm and was around 210mm long, i lathed a lip around the edge of the slug so the pipe could slip over it and be soldered to it. I then lathed a ring off of the end of the pipe and cut one side of the ring so i could spread it around the pipe and also solder it on, this ring is for the bracket to apply mounting pressure to the whole pot. I had a friend make the mounting bracket out of 6mm aluminium for me based off a rough drawing i sent them, the slots you see cut into it are so it can accomodate different sockets, i have made it compatible with 775, 1155 and i think 1366. the pot will attach to the mainboard with the pictured backplate and another i need to aquire, threaded rod, springs and wing nuts. The only step left in the making of this is to face off the contact surface and lap it to a mirror finish. Once i have finished it i will post some results of using this with my XFX 780i board and some form of core 2 or a pentium 4

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https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/broken-tap-copper-aluminum-259158/

You can eat out the taps in the copper with some Alum. Mix enough Alum with water to have a almost saturated solution. Put your part in, and let soak. If you can warm the solution, it will speed up the process. It might take a day or so for it to eat out the tap. This is a trick used by the old time watchmakers. You can probably find it at a medical supply house, or order off the net. The Alum will eat the steel taps, and leave the copper alone.
 

i was just looking around when i found these sites, i have never tried this myself , up to you if you choose to do it, broken taps and drill bits are a pain in the arse to get out, i was seriously suprised and impressed how easy this method is

Edited by ozzie

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23 hours ago, ozzie said:

https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/broken-tap-copper-aluminum-259158/

You can eat out the taps in the copper with some Alum. Mix enough Alum with water to have a almost saturated solution. Put your part in, and let soak. If you can warm the solution, it will speed up the process. It might take a day or so for it to eat out the tap. This is a trick used by the old time watchmakers. You can probably find it at a medical supply house, or order off the net. The Alum will eat the steel taps, and leave the copper alone.
 

i was just looking around when i found these sites, i have never tried this myself , up to you if you choose to do it, broken taps and drill bits are a pain in the arse to get out, i was seriously suprised and impressed how easy this method is

Hmmm i might have to give that ago. Will be a little while before i use it though. Got alot of stuff coming up soon

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well you got nothin to lose, then youll be able to get the pot drilled out properly to work more efficiently as intended , remember tho, a too slow drill  or too fast a drill, and if it grabs it can snap a drill bit like a carrot, a nice slow even pressure and a medium speed is all thats needed for copper and with drill lubricant for the heat produced, and make sure the bit is sharp, blunt bits grab easier coz usually more pressure is applied to do the cut

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10 hours ago, ozzie said:

well you got nothin to lose, then youll be able to get the pot drilled out properly to work more efficiently as intended , remember tho, a too slow drill  or too fast a drill, and if it grabs it can snap a drill bit like a carrot, a nice slow even pressure and a medium speed is all thats needed for copper and with drill lubricant for the heat produced, and make sure the bit is sharp, blunt bits grab easier coz usually more pressure is applied to do the cut

Yeah i might take it into work one day and unsolder it after eating the bit our and drill the other holes out. for more surface area. you dont think i will have problem with the solder cracking at such low temps?

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is it normal solder or silver solder ? mate id desolder it all and start from scratch, get the holes right then resolder it all again, silver solder is best

do it properly , itll pay off in the long run 👍

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On 11/3/2019 at 8:07 AM, ozzie said:

is it normal solder or silver solder ? mate id desolder it all and start from scratch, get the holes right then resolder it all again, silver solder is best

do it properly , itll pay off in the long run 👍

Just normal solder. I mean if it cracks after a few runs i have no problem reflowing it. just curious if it will

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