SMyers Posted August 1, 2023 Share Posted August 1, 2023 (edited) Total newb to OC, just looking into it today for the first time. I'm running some tests using XTU 2.0 on a new Asus Prime Z690-P MB / i7-13700K with 64GB (2x32GB) Kingston Fury Beast 5600MT/s DDR5 Ram The system came with a Cooler Master MasterLiquid Lite 240 installed. I'm not yet doing any sort of Overclocking yet, just running it in Factory Auto/Defaults mode to get some baseline numbers. My Question: Is it normal when I run XTU 2.0 Benchmark for the Package Temperature to go to 100C and Thermal Throttle after a few seconds? It drops back down to 36C after the test is run, but I'm a bit concerned that this Water Cooler is not that great. Edited August 1, 2023 by SMyers typo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crew Leeghoofd Posted August 1, 2023 Crew Share Posted August 1, 2023 Can you take some screenshots or make a video of it sir, ensure that some CPUZ tabs or Hwinfo64 is monitoring the temps and CPU voltage. Also not a bad idea to open the case panel to get more air in Try a remount of the cooler ( if you got some spare thermal paste left ) maybe the builder left the foil between the cooler and the CPU? re the radiator fans adjusting their RPM during load? Could also be that your specific motherboard overvolts big time or if you are really unlucky you got a very bad silicon CPU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMyers Posted August 1, 2023 Author Share Posted August 1, 2023 So I take it it's not "normal" for it to go into Thermal Throttling when it runs the test. 'm ordering some PK-3 Thermal paste to see if that helps. I've attached a screenshot of HWiNfo64 before and after running the XTU Benchmark Utility. I'm considering buying a better Cooler for this system, but it seems 99% of them are covered with LED's and I'd prefer something without all the lights. I'm not conserned about the price, I just don't care for flashing lights on/in my PC's. I've read a few good things about the CORSAIR iCUE H150i RGB PRO XT, 360mm (my case has space for it) and I believe it can be installed without hooking up the RGB LED's. From what i understand, it has software that can read temprature sensors on the Cooler->CPU interface and the Input/Output of the cooling fluid, which might be good to know. This CoolerMaster doesn't have anything to tell me what it's doing (or not doing) Thanks for taking the time to reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crew Leeghoofd Posted August 1, 2023 Crew Share Posted August 1, 2023 Just hold off buying more cooling gear before having tried the remount with the PK3 paste. Even though that CM AIO is really old and the heatplate is for sure not optimal for modern gen CPUs Maybe the current thermal spread is really bad, Maybe the assembler forgot to remove the protective foil,... Maybe you will need to buy the improved holding mount Anyways, not a big fan of all this AIO madness, I run my dailys with a solid good old Noctua DH15S... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMyers Posted August 3, 2023 Author Share Posted August 3, 2023 Well, new Thermal paste didn't help, and they did remember to remove the sticker. The spread on what they had on there was very good, and I applied PK-3 to it 3x trying to get better results. (Cleaning everything off 100% between applications) Everytime I pull it off there was a nice full rectangle of paste on both the CPU and the Heatsink surface. Now I'm in the market for something that just plain works. I'm not positive a Noctua DH15S will fit, it looks like the DIMMS are too close to the CPU on my Asus Prime Z690-P MB. I'm going to have to do some serious measuring to see and if not, look for a better AIO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crew Leeghoofd Posted August 3, 2023 Crew Share Posted August 3, 2023 Did you take any pictures of the TIM spread, too much is also not good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMyers Posted August 3, 2023 Author Share Posted August 3, 2023 I didn't take any photos, but I followed the directions and verified it was not oozing out from the edges, but still completely covering the face for the CPU. Without using any paste I verified the "ZigZag" test was good (4 ultra thin strips of paper layed flat between the screws, lightly finger tight the scews and the papers gripped tight all the way around the CPU to Heatsink face) I tried the “X”, 3-Lines, the 3mm Dot and the Plastic Spatula methods, all with the same exact results. Perfect coverage over 100% of the face, no excess on the edges and still 100c constant after 3 seconds of heavy load. 5 grams of PK-3 and a 1 Gram tube of Grizzly Kryonaut and nothing changed at all. I've built quite a few PC's since the 1980's and this one has me wishing I was back on a '286 with 640KB of RAM running DOS 3.0 again...at least they didn't overheat (or even need a heatsink/cooler) As it is, I think I'm going to swap this out for a new ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 360 to see if that fixes it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMyers Posted August 5, 2023 Author Share Posted August 5, 2023 I ended up with DeepCool LT720 Liquid Cooler 360mm and a Thermal Grizzly Contact Frame, re-applied PK-3 and it solved all my issues. I'm able to benchmark 10,200 on XTU with Turbo set to 285W constant and 285W Short Term and it never exceed 82c with no Undervolting at all. Even when I run Cinebench R23 for 15 minutes it still stays below 82c I'm not sure if it was switching from a Termalright Contact Frame to a Grizzly Frame or swapping the CoolerMaster to the DeepCool LT720, but either way it's all good and I'm ready to move on. I thank you for all of your help in solving this issue. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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