Rasparthe Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Ummm.... 280?? WORK HARDER!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.nfraR.ed Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 281 is what it did before, but I'll try to beat it, even though it would be hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.nfraR.ed Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 (edited) I think it's dead now. Had a leak around the chipset and now it doesn't post. Let it stay overnight with removed battery. All voltages are still in tact, but no POST Edited March 8, 2012 by I.nfraR.ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
just_nuke_em Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 You killed that awesome board? Say it aint so Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hondacity Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 no clamps? tsk tsk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.nfraR.ed Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 Yes, my fault. But I've been running several times this way...you know, it happens once... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crew Turrican Posted March 8, 2012 Crew Share Posted March 8, 2012 Let it dry a bit, it should work then again (hopefully). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hondacity Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 (edited) Yes, my fault. But I've been running several times this way...you know, it happens once...  after my leak, i've always use protection now..lol  tight fittings + clamps thats how i make sure nothing gets wet( or infected lol jk) Edited March 9, 2012 by Hondacity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.nfraR.ed Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 Let it dry a bit, it should work then again (hopefully). I used the hot-air gun almost immediately. Anyway, I'll check it again after some days. Really hope it will work again. Â after my leak, i've always use protection now..loltight fittings + clamps thats how i make sure nothing gets wet( or infected lol jk) Â I've had leaks 2-3 times without any consequences. It just stops working as expected, but when dried out, it works again. Â Circled area was in water: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kikicoco1334 Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 sry to hear that man.. that's how i killed one of my NF7-S as well, stupid leak... Â luckily i have 3 of them 1 down 2 to go! Â somehow my muti will not change to save its' own life! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coolfx Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 It's sad for the board but 277 is great job Do you have a valid pic for the vdd mod, i need to hit more than 260 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.nfraR.ed Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 It could do 281. I have pencil mod on this one, but had somewhere another NF7-S v.2 with a hard-mod. It doesn't scale much with volts. Up to 2V is ok, but scaling after 1.8 is small and over 2V makes it even worse for my board. Yours might be different. Here's one good guide http://www.techarp.com/showarticle.aspx?artno=106&pgno=0 . Some of the boards need Vref mod as well. It depends on the board rev (numbers on the back of the pcb), but I don't remember which one, it was looong time ago these boards were new. Other than that, you must actively cool the SB as well, it gets very hot. If you choose the resistor method. never change its value while the board is running. You'd better put a small heatsink on the voltage regulator, too. And ofcourse...triple-check everything before firing it up. I've had no problems running with vdd mod for a long period of time, but the leak killed it . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d3mox Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 281mhz, nice ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coolfx Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 Thx for the tips and the link. I know this board, but this one has 1.5 year, to clock old cpu's and it's hard to find mod informations still online since 2003 Mine do 1.61v with 1.7v bios, old BH5 synchro with 3.7v vdimm,270.4mhz valid now, 273mhz but corrupted file. Lot of insulation, dod on chipset, watercool on the cpu, hope it survive... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d3mox Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 It would be hard to beat mine NF7 Â Cya :> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.nfraR.ed Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Why not upload it then? It's not about prizes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d3mox Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 I know i know, today will be uploaded Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coolfx Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 Just when i came back with 315mhz tccd the nf7 passed away Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.nfraR.ed Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Sorry to hear that What was the reason? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coolfx Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Still alive finally, i haven't removed the insulation since several months, melted ice has oxidized and shorted some components under. A helping toothbrush and go again. Thx for the vddmod link, gained 2mhz, try tomorrow for more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.