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I.nfraR.ed last won the day on November 4 2018

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About I.nfraR.ed

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  1. I would say not many boards can do 272+ stable (not even all Ultra-B, let alone other nForce2 boards). RAM seems to be fine as well. Modding seems rough and messy, could be way more elegant, but as long as it works... Good luck with the sale, seems to be a great combo. As for my best XP-M chips, I think they load XP and run superpi/pifast at 2.9GHz under 2V on ambient water, around 3GHz valid.
  2. BTW, I have found one XS thread with some more info about possible clocks: https://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?276672-Winbond-BH-5-The-Final So it turns out my result kind of matches what @TerraRaptor said - 270 2-2-2-5 3.3V. PS: @Kotori's teamgroup xtreem (tccd) stick, that holds the current ddr record on the bot, scaled up to 3.7-3.8V IIRC, while mine was starting to show random crashes as soon as I give it 3.4+ volts.
  3. I haven't tested as many modules, but I would aim for the numbers mentioned by Sam. On s.939 usually I get to run 512MB modules at the 270-280 range. Most of the times in the 3.6 - 3.8V range, all tight. 512MB modules will give you and advantage in scores, but are a little harder to clock. For older platforms 256 modules are a must.
  4. Hate that "feature" of gigabyte boards. I always try and save important profiles on external drive (usb stick), otherwise there's a high chance the dual-bios reflashes main chip from the backup one, wiping all saved profiles.
  5. I am with Alex here. Trying to look at it as neutral as possible. To me, your mistake is first (as others mentioned) not using e.g. paypal's "pay for goods or services", however I can really understand the reasoning behind this. I've bought several times from respectable hwbot members and most of the times (if not always) I've used the "friends" option. The next mistake is to directly attempt to test it with an "unofficially supported" method or even attempting any test when you saw the scratch (or crack). Based on other comments in the thread, I could definitely believe the possibility this CPU was damaged prior shipping with e.g. excessive force from a pot mounting, however, realistically speaking, noone could prove that. As for the shipping claims and other ways of recovering, I can't comment, since I don't have any experience with that. Good luck recovering your money though!
  6. Great one, mem clock does really pay off! Can't be done on AMD, since pre-Thuban CPUs are limited to around 1000MHz memory clock.
  7. I only have one s.775 board (P5E3 Premium) and never had REX myself, but my board worked 1000 6-7-5-20 first boot 2x2GB Hypers. Excuse my lame question, but I've only tested it with E6400 on water for 4GHz 32M low clock. I see you have modded it, so which voltmods are "mandatory" for this board if I want to bench e.g. E8500 on LN2? I see vPLL and vCPU on the picture.
  8. I've never owned Dom GT 2000C7, but I've seen there are better ones, especially if you have MNH-based kit still running. I consider my GTX2 better than the ones listed, but I haven't tested on the same platforms - might be better, might be worse. If I manage to get these (sent PM), I will compare directly to mine. I've bought some ST 2200C8 from websmile and other sources in the past and they all need significantly higher voltage for same tight timings on AM3 platform, so it would be interesting for me to compare Sam's set against mine. I only have 3xGTX2 sticks - 2 original ones I bought new when released and one spare from Splave (perhaps a reject, I don't know).
  9. I will get the GTX2 if available, please.
  10. Depends. Usually you can bin for FSB on air/water and in my limited experience they scale pretty linear on LN2, so I can predict what would be the max frequency possible. There are other factors though - voltage scaling, NB coldbug (yes there are such CPU's), IMC coldbug.
  11. Yeah, 2 out of my 4 4850's have the 03 bug, unfortunately my best one (MSI HD4850) has it too. Same applies to 4870 and 4890, but don't remember which has it and which not. Good luck with sale!
  12. There's not much difference between "ambient" or current situation with temp set at 10°C on chiller. It still can boot those clocks, but the lower temperature helps stabilize 3.6GHz uncore. What would help though is if I drop the "real" temperature to e.g. 2-3°C, which might actually help up the CPU-NB one notch. I can control it down to 3°C (with a step of 1°C) which is the minimum of the chiller. From that point going down is "full-on" mode with bypassing the temp sensor of the chiller. So, by design, I still would fit in the competition restrictions, unless I override it manually. That's why I asked if it is ok to use HWInfo in case it shows something else (like on Bones' screenshot). He's using a FX, though. I completely understand the sensors are not reliable, plus there is difference in motherboards implementations as well.
  13. Btw, what is the temperature sensor we're not allowed to drop under 0? Because it's physically impossible that my CPU is at 1-2°C when the chiller is set to e.g. 10°C. Real CPU temperature is like 3-4°C higher, which in my case is temp sensor #2 and #3: Is it ok if I use HWInfo which e.g. doesn't show that "Core #1 - #2" temperature, but something else (have to test first what it shows)?
  14. Thanks. Probably won't run it again, although I can match that CPU-NB with the spare 1090T. Will see if I have time next weekend, but certainly no cold on the memory.
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