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str8_an94baller

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Posts posted by str8_an94baller

  1. Hi everyone.

     

    I got a kit of 3600C16 b-die from G.skill and I've read the OC guide here: https://github.com/integralfx/MemTestHelper/blob/master/DDR4 OC Guide.md

    I was wondering whether or not I could improve these results any further?

     

    cBxKslB.png

     

     

     

     

     

    Crosshair 8 Hero WiFi

    f4-3600C16D-32gtzn G.skill TridentZ Neo 3600 16-16-16-36 (b-die)

    Mem settings: 1.39v, switching frequency and phase control maxed out in the bios

    CPU: 3950X

     

     

     

    Please advise, thanks in advance.

  2. 1 hour ago, TASOS said:

    What exactly do you mean by this ?

    Which bios version are you using ?

     

     

    On 5/6/2020 at 9:45 AM, cbjaust said:

    I never had Zen+ in my C6H so I can't comment on that. Certainly with a Zen2 CPU (Ryzen 5 3600X) and C6H there's full controll of memclk, fclk and uclk, so unless we're not talking about the same thing...  ?‍♂️

     

     

    When a Zen 2 CPU is installed, there is a bios logic that hides the option to select/enable dual BLCK/eCLK async mode.

     

    We tried to unhide this with 7704 and 7306, the option is there but changing BLCK doesn't work. There's a deeper/more hidden code in the bios that we have yet to discover.

     

     

    Above discoveries made by user XX on r/ThinkPad discord

     

     

  3. 15 hours ago, cbjaust said:

    Which board in particular? are you missing the fabric clock option now?

    When installed with Zen 2 CPU (3900X) the C6 Hero has some sort of logic in the bios that hides/disables eCLK mode. This board had dual BLCK as the marketing push for an overclocking board.

  4. On 12/31/2019 at 1:04 PM, Sparks.nl said:

    I was just thinking that your block might not cover the cpu cores for cooling it in a optimal way.

    I didn’t test rotating it to the right yet, just to the left, altough I don’t expect much difference between those. 

    I expect much from a review of my block, I just didn’t find one yet. 

    Sorry for a very late reply, but I just RMA'd the cpu and got a better one with 1-2c temp difference.

     

     

     

    • Thanks 1
  5. 2 hours ago, Leeghoofd said:

    Test the Noctua first before buying anything else. I have a gut feeling it might be the block or even the complete unit. I had a similar experience with testing Ryzen setups on my high end EK DIY setup, with a waterblock perfectly handling 5960X@4.8 and 6950X at 4.6 daily. 

     

     

    Ok.

     

    Which EK block did you use?

     

     

    1 hour ago, Sparks.nl said:

    I am wondering which results you get if you turn the cpu block with 90 degrees. Even my Alphacool XPX Aurora had some temperature differences when rotating the block. I tested it before mounting the motherboard in it’s case. 

    Idle temp should indeed be in 30’s. 

     

    90 degrees right or left?

    If you see in the screenshot, CCD1 is around 10c lower. Which puts in in the 30-degree range.

     

    I heard that the XPX Aurora Pro is the best AM4 / TR4 block due to microfin size, but I'm not sure if that will fix the temp difference problem or fit on my motherboard.

     

    https://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/cpu-water-blocks/cpu-water-blocks/24776/alphacool-eisblock-xpx-aurora-pro-plexi-black-digital-rgb

  6. 16 hours ago, Leeghoofd said:

    Is there a boxed Wraith fan included, I strongly suggest to give that a spin.

    Temps are way too high no matter how good the specs of that Swiftech kit look on paper. Maybe the block is too restrictive in flow for the pump to handle. This particular waterblock also might not be good enough for this gen of CPUs

     

    8 hours ago, Sparks.nl said:

    There are no boxed coolers included for Ryzen 3950x. 

     

    Yes, there's no boxed cooler included with my CPU.

     

    Apogee SKF LT is supposed to be one of the most (if not the most) restrictive flow blocks on the market, but the pump seems strong on the Drive X3 kit.

     

    It says

    Max. Static Pressure     2.8 mH₂O

    Max. discharge     11 l/m

     

    I'm not sure if it's good or not.

     

    I'm thinking of just buying a highend waterblock like Optimus AM4 (https://optimuspc.com/products/foundation-cpu-block-amd?variant=31139815751763) and replacing the preinstalled one, but I don't know if it will fix the problem.

     

     

     

     

    Previously I was cooling around 240w (5820K 4.6/1.365v) and reached around 86-88c max (IHS is warped slightly), so it doesn't make sense why this cooler is struggling with a lower heat output (150-180w).

    Maybe the fins of the waterblock don't cover the CCD1?

     

     

     

    I can test Noctua NH D15 (with AM4 mounting kit) but I'm not sure if it will perform any better.

     

     

     

     

    2 hours ago, Splave said:

    Idle temp is still high should be in the 30s did you remove the plastic cover on the face of the water block.

    I made sure that I did. I used the cooler previously with a 5820K.

    I also included pictures of the mounting spread of thermal paste.

     

    Mounting and thermal paste spread (please double check pictures to make sure I didn't do anything wrong.

    https://i.imgur.com/ZzeOv3D.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/C4vavUT.jpg

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Also to mention I am using LLC3 (out of 5) on the motherboard.

    The performance enhancer setting is turned off (auto).

  7. On 12/28/2019 at 9:07 PM, Splave said:

    Are you starting hw monitor after you start prime 95? I'm assuming you aren't really idling at 60c<+?

    Try disabling pbo and all the turbo stuff and lock in 4ghz 1.3v and see if it evens out. 

    Hi,

     

    I don't have hwmonitor installed. So only using HWinfo 64.

     

    The idle is lower but still have nasty temperature difference.

     

    4GHz 1.3v will result in thermal throttling (95c).

     

     

    Idle temperatures picture (I have stuff open on the background)

    BN0tjQr.png

  8. Hi,

     

    I'm having quite the difficulty in trying to overclock my R9 3950x.


    I'm especially concerned in temperature difference between CCD1 and CDD2, because my difference between ccd1 and ccd2 is almost 15-20c. While the power draw is slightly different, between CCDs, I'm not exactly sure what's causing this issue to happen.

    I have a prefilled water cooler by Swiftech (Drive x3 360mm AIO cooler, Apogee SKF LT waterblock, 3x Gentle Typhoons). The cooler itself shouldn't have any problem handling small power draw of around 150w-170w. But the high temps of CCD1 limits my ability to set a manual OC.


    I'm not interested about clocks for now. I want to fix the temperature differences between chiplets.




    Mounting and thermal paste spread

    https://i.imgur.com/ZzeOv3D.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/C4vavUT.jpg

     

     

     

    Temperatures (hwinfo)

     

     

     

     


    cinebench r20
    6uSb3m6.png


    prime95


    ZaxRkuG.png


    adobe premiere


    1tV60Og.png

     

     

     

     

     

     


    System details

    AMD RYZEN 3950X
    ASUS Crosshair 8 Hero Wi-Fi motherboard
    2x16GB DDR4 (G.skill) 3600C16
    Windows 10 Pro x64, latest AMD Chipset driver
    Swiftech (Drive x3 360mm AIO cooler, Apogee SKF LT waterblock, 3x Gentle Typhoons)
    I have 1 fan pointed on the back of motherboard socket

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