marco.is.not.80
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Posts posted by marco.is.not.80
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https://www.patreon.com/benchmate/overview
There is also:
https://www.paypal.me/overclockers
Both of these are also accessible through the donate button in the BenchMate application itself.
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Actually, I just realized - it's the wrong score - I need single core results not multicore results for geekbench 4 so back to invalid data file. I'll keep trying. Ignore my dumb request - now I know why you guys said don't use the submit button ?
EDIT: Oh my god I'm just making myself look more retarded as the day goes on. There is no problem with benchmate... the problem is the user who was submitting multicore results instead of the singlecore results. Sorry for all the noise ?
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Ok, here is something crazy. If I use the submit to hwbot button within benchmate (I know it's not supposed to be working) I can submit the results no problem - shows up in my profile, etc. I can edit it and add all the missing vendor info but when I hit save the only option it preents to me to participate is the AMD DDR4 comp and not the Intel one... Getting there ?
LeegH: Would it be possible to add this submission to the Intel DDR4 comp for me - I'm worried I won't solve this before the end which is in a few hours:
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I changed my default browser to Firefox so maybe that's causing some sort of issue. Also, for Geekbench3 I was able to enter my private license key but for Geekbench4 is doesn't ask me nor can I find a place to change it. I think it gets entered during installation but in the case of BenchMate that process is not available obviously... Maybe you are pulling the license info from the registry (I have not actually checked to see if it is there but writing this quickly).
The error is:
"Invalid Data File. Unable to decrypt the data file."
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I've got a key for both and can submit for Geekbench 3 but 4 won't work. Any ideas?
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6 hours ago, GtiJason said:
Yes you are right on the A0 being called A1, but A2 is A2 as we've come to know it. A1 isn't really used on OC dimms as it's used mainly for ECC and OEM's
Ah, ok perfect. So, A0 = A1 and A2 is really A2 which means that my Galax HOF set is A2 because the gap between the clusters is exactly as described above. Wonder why I couldn't get Dancop's profile to work... At least I know I'm working with A2 now so I don't have to worry I'm putting effort into something that isn't. Thanks!
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Guys, can someone please define "A2" because from what I know there is "A0" which many people seem to identify as "A1" and then there is "A1" which gets called "A2" based on A0 being called A1 and then there is the real A2 which I'm not sure if this BIOS is for THE real A2 or for A1 which gets called A2 incorrectly?
I believe I only have A0 and one stick of the real A2 which I believe the last version of the Galax HOF kit was A2 based on the layout I have comparing it to the description I read on r/overclocking (see below):
QuotePCBs
Memory PCB can affect overclocking characteristics and compatibility. Presented here is a list of standard PCB layouts and what is known about them.
Please note: there is a lot of confusion about what is A0 and what is A1, with a lot of people incorrectly referring to A0 PCBs as A1. Keep in mind that PCB information reported in thaiphoon burner or other SPD reporting tools may not be accurate as it relies on the SPD being programmed correctly.
Single Rank (single-sided) with standard ICs
A0
A0 is the original single rank layout designed for JEDEC (stock) speeds up to DDR4-2133. It can be identified by having 8 normal ICs on one side that are rougly evenly spaced, with the SPD chip right in the middle if you're peeking under a heatspreader from the contacts side.
A0 PCB is also known as the "non-RGB PCB" as it's used on G.Skill non-RGB single rank kits up to DDR4-4266 (and older, now-discontinued non-RGB 4266+ kits). People often mistakenly call this PCB "A1", to the point that if you see an overclocker talk about "A1 PCB" they probably mean A0.
This is the best PCB for running extreme b-die profiles/presets aimed at 4000-4133 12-12-12 or 12-11-11. Not because it's a better PCB, but because it has better compatibility with 2-DIMM boards.
A1
A1 is designed for JEDEC (stock) speeds up to DDR4-2400, and is shared with the ECC D1 PCB. This means that on non-ECC modules you will see an empty pad for a 9th IC. This is normal and part of the design; it does not mean the PCB is being used improperly.
Compatibility is a bit of an unknown as vendors popular with overclockers don't use this PCB, but it has been tested with 4Gbit Samsung E-die from OEM kits and Crucial Ballistix and is certainly capable of at least DDR4-4266 CL19.
Identifying A1 vs A2
A1 looks similar to A2 under the heatspreaders - the ICs are in two groups, one on each side. There are a few 'tells';
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A1 has the SPD chip on the front, next to an IC, and no components on the back. A2 has the SPD chip and some smd components on the back.
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Both A1 and A2 have a single SMD capacitor by the notch. On A1 the edge of this is pretty much lined up with the edge of the notch, on A2 it's offset by a good 1-2mm.
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A1 has unpopulated pads for SMD conponents supporting the 9th IC along the bottom edge that may be visible between the heatspreader and contacts.
A2
A2, also known as the "RGB PCB" as G.Skill use it on their RGB kits as well as more recent (at time of writing - early May 2019) non-RGB >4266 kits, is the latest (as of early May 2019) standard single rank PCB layout and is targeted at JEDEC (stock) speeds up to DDR4-2666. It's a very good PCB that's sadly best known for compatibility issues with 2-DIMM socket 1151 boards, especially the Asus Apex series - on which it needs CL of 19 or above for DDR4-3866+.
It should be stressed that problems doing tight timings on the A2 PCB are about compatibility not quality - on 4-DIMM socket 1151 boards it works great. If you're trying to do really extreme settings on A2-based b-die and having trouble, making sure XMP is enabled will often alleviate the problems. You should also look for a more recent bios that may improve compatibility.
A2 is identifiable by having all the ICs crammed tightly into two clusters, one on each side. The gap between the clusters is huge - about as big as the width of a cluster. If you're not sure which single rank 8-chip PCB you have, check the section above on A1 vs A2.
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Agreed.
I solved the problem by disabling secure boot - which proves your point perfectly.
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2 hours ago, _mat_ said:
Hehe, you will find lots of your work inside BenchMate. DLL injection with API hooking is one of the things necessary to be able to fix the benchmarks, add working timers etc.
A driver file signature can't be verified on certain preinstalled Windows 10 versions due to the new mandatory attestation testing for drivers to get the additional signing by Microsoft.
Soon we will start hearing questions like "Do you have the working version of Windows 10 or the older version which stopped working?" ?
Anyways, I'll figure something out - maybe this is a good time to a fresh install lol.
Marco
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Just in case I wasn't clear I did finally get an order in but as you've discovered it was related to Paypal. Once I created an account and UNCHECKED the box - forgot what it was called - but the one which suggests your postal address is different from your billing address - Paypal worked again for me.
Stated in steps:
1. Create an account on Elmor's site and fill in EVERYTHING under billing address.
2. uncheck box for different address and leave everything blank.
3. profit!
Marco
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10 hours ago, _mat_ said:
Please have a little patience until version 0.8 is ready. It's very close, testing just revealed a minor problem that will take a few additional hours. I really want the first public release to be solid!
Feel free to test with 0.7.1 though if you have the time.
@marco.is.not.80 Is this an OEM version of Windows 10 (like preinstalled on a notebook)? If yes, the driver needs to be signed by Microsoft as well to work and that's why you are seeing an error. Will do that of course for future versions after testing was successful.
Also check the system time, it needs to be correct, not like in the year 2088.
It's a retail version of Windows 10 I purchased directly from Microsoft. I didn't really want to reinstall because this machine is my daily and wanted to take your suite out for a test drive and put it through some of the same hurdles I put our in house developer's stuff through at the company I work for currently during a security audit. Stuff I'm sure you are already familiar with - DLL hijacking, API hooking, etc. Obviously if it needs to be signed and my version of Windows 10 Pro (updated to the latest patch level as of yesterday) isn't able to verify it that maybe something is wrong with my certificate store but you seem to suggest that it's not signed which I'm trying to understand how people reinstalling got it to work?
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"Could not initialize BenchMate driver! Windows cannot verify the digital signature for this file. A recent hardware or software change might have installed a file that is signed incorrectly or damaged, or that might be malicious software from an unknown source [#577]"
Any ideas?
Marco
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Wow, thanks DC! Sharing the profiles and having them available in the Asus BIOS - can't tell you how appreciative I am!
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On 5/27/2019 at 6:30 AM, Matsglobetrotter said:
i dont see any updates on my profile page points list on 2,4,6 core participation. this even after 3 days to a week having submissions and being listed in 4th place on several
Mats, did this resolve for you because I'm still in the same boat and don't know if my account is fracked up or I just need to wait it out... ?
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2 hours ago, elmor said:
Hmm not sure why that is. Anyone else had issues? One option could also be to create an account before placing the order, any captcha requirement should be removed after logging in.
Ah, ok, I'll try that now.
EDIT: Ok, I tried again after creating an account and now when I order it says bill phone number required. I added that in my address list for my account but it still insists during checkout that my phone number needs to included. That was with Paypal. So I tried Amex and put my "contact phone #" in but got the same error. I can share some screenshots if it will help.
UPDATE: Weird. Not sure what I did differently but I got the order received page. ?
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I keep trying to order but no matter how I check out and no matter which browser I use after the card is processed I am returned to the checkout page where it says I need to properly complete the captcha - which of course - I've already done. Anyone else have this problem?
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What does it mean when I get no entries in my wall feed about closed competitions and where I ranked and no longer seem to get updated points based on my comps that I have recently completed? It's like I never did them?
EDIT: Sorry didn't mean to revive an old thread - for some reason this showed up as new in my unread feed.
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I lost quite a few points but believe it was the right decision and appreciate the volunteers who continue to keep hwbot going. Thank you. XTU was what introduced me to the bot by the way... it lead to the rookie rumble... the novice nimble... never looked back!
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13 hours ago, yosarianilives said:
Did you try different AA modes? You can't do LOD without AA and iirc heaven doesn't use the same AA mode as most benches do.
When you say AA mode you mean like sparse grid supersampling x2/x4/x8 and/or AA_REPLAY_MODE_ALL? Then yes. If you mean something else then no. Let me know if I'm retarded.
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3 hours ago, ozzie said:
mate you gotta do what we all do, takes hours yes, days, , whatever, , its not an easy benchmark. im still trying, my trick is this , try something else. if that dont work then try something else, different ram, different gpu settings all make a difference, its what you find at that time that works nicely together is what ive found
Yep... Probably should have done it sooner.
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you'll definitely want to get that fixed or it will get rejected. Sorry man, been there many times!
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Yes, for sure - there is an obvious lack of detail as I increase it to the point where it looks like I'm running the benchmark on an old Mattel Intellivision.
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Actually, this benchmark has been such a pain I was going to ask you to do it for me. I need my shoes shined, too. Please don't forget the peeled grapes.
LOL. You are correct in assuming I don't want to be spoon fed but little helpful hints like the one you provided aren't frowned upon I hope?
One thing I can say I've officially done is tried one round of every possible LOD setting (0 to 33) and none of them made any difference so I suspect if LOD is involved in this at all it must be a non-standard value that isn't offered in the drop down box. I do appreciate you affirming that I should continue to stay within nvidia profile inspector since I had recently washed my hands of it which sounds like the wrong direction... so yes, thank you.
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Provide the offering plate and the members will fill it.
AvengedRobix - GeForce RTX 2080 Ti @ 2235/2031MHz - 10610 marks 3DMark Port Royal
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