trodas

Okay, okay, guys. Seems you got the point... Manufacturer is Quanta and product is really 30BB, witch is a bit odd... But whatever. I had not that much faith in CPU-Z HW detection, tough My Jetway V266B it report as: Model Unknown VT8366-8233 ...so I would never fully trust it anyway But therefore okay, I try submit some scores then... for the Quanta and 30BB, hmmm.

But... but how can I submit any score, when search for "Compaq Presario V6314EA", "Presario V6314EA", "V6314EA" or even "V6314" returned no results? Typically users have no idea, what the 30bb is? What it is that I missing there...?

I do wonder, if HWbot do care about notebooks (NTB for short). I got my friend one for repairs and will get replaced old crappy HDD for a nice M4 Crucial 256G SSD, so some disk bench could be pretty interesting Compaq Presario V6314EA According to webpage of HP it have slightly slower CPU that my friend one have: http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c01053600&tmp_task=prodinfoCategory&cc=us&dlc=en&lc=en&product=3380653 But it is still nice NTB It can be installed even on Win2k (internal WiFi drivers does not work then) and XP, the cursed Vista is not necessary. So I wonder, could it be added? I would like to submit few results, as the Cinebench test indicate

ROFL ... it is, however, indeed strange to see girl pouring a LN2 into overclocking rig... But she seems to handle it well... or is there next photo that show, how the board end up in smoke, when the LN2 was poured on it...?

P4C800 - probably need lowering the FSB then or need replacing (boosting) the small caps near the SB and SATA? Dunno. As for the ceramic blocking caps for the Vcore output/input caps, then the lead spacing is 5mm, so a 4,5mm long one (1808, 1812...) will not fit, so we are restricted to the 1206, 1210 sizes. So for the output I recommend bridging the caps using this one: Murata X7R, 10uF 16V (1206) GRM31CR71C106KAC7L Don't be fooled with the 16V, just look at the DC bias - at 16V it will have -55% of it's capacity, but up to 2V it hold the 10uF well. And that bring us to the imput bridging caps. Since the noise, introduced by the polymers, need to be dealt with before it "ring" the coils and overheat unnecessary the mosfets, then we need to block this before it goes on wild. So... the major problem is the DC bias at 12V, therefore I suggest you use this cap: Murata X7R, 10uF 50V (1210) GRM32ER71H106KA12L Once again, DC bias will somewhat lower the capacity (at 50V it is -45%, but at 12V it is like -2% or so, so acceptable) ... As for the soldering, I want you to solder these caps between the legs of the replaced caps, like this C360 one there: ...but at at the side of the main big cap wires/legs - but directly between them. That would be perfect. So in sumary, you need to order: 8x Nichicon LE 1500uF 2.5V d10x13 PLE0E152MDO1 3x Nichicon NU 680uF 16V d10x13 RNU1C681MDN1PH 6x Panasonic Tantal-polymer 470uF 2.5V 2R5TPF470M6L 8x Murata X7R, 10uF 16V (1206) GRM31CR71C106KAC7L 3x Murata X7R, 10uF 50V (1210) GRM32ER71H106KA12L (just use the serial number in Digikey or Mouser search and that it is) As for soldering, take anyone who did this sucesfully before rather that try it for first time yourself. I would gladly do the job for you, just to see how far the overclock will go then - especially using watercooling - but I live in Czech republic and did not planing on moving anytime soon

If your PSU is strong and good, then you sure as hell notice seriously better overclocking. Want some suggestions for the blocking ceramic caps?

So I get the dimentions right, good. As for the bottom look - well, there are space for next two, witch is good. There are no space for any ceramic blocking caps, but we can solder them right on the legs of the replacement caps from the bottom side, no biggie. If you can photograph these SMD caps that way, we can read what is written on them, that will be great. Regardless, if 12.5 - 13mm height are fine with you (you hardly can get anything smaller), then go for it. Word on these SMD tantals - every electrolyte/polymer cap has marked a cathode (-) ... but tantal caps have marked the anode (+) !!! And it is very important not to make it wrong. They promise, that modern tantal caps did not catch fire, but I will not be trying that for real... Remember to measure the anode and cathode orientation before you start desoldering for all these 6 places for these SMD tantal-polymers now. Make a simple diagram, with the mobo and caps orientation, so you did not solder it wrong. As for the ceramic blocking caps to surpress the polymer noise (because there are not enought ceramic caps on the mobo for the CPU - mine MSI used 10 ceramics caps in the 775 socket and 6 above it - so go figure), then I would recommend to solder then directly on the legs of the polymer caps. Hope you got what I mean. Can you solder well?

Well, you did not see then, but I do see them on the first sight. Marked with green circles - empty circles as empty space for them, cull circle as full cap: As the caps are d10, then this is consistent with the datasheets. In fact, the ZL is much better that I thought: Rubycon MBZ 2200uF 6.3V (d10x20 - 2770mA) Rubycon ZL 1200uF 16V (d10x23 - 2150mA) So I suggest replacing them with these: Nichicon LE 1500uF 2.5V d10x13 PLE0E152MDO1 (7300mA) Nichicon NU 680uF 16V d10x13 RNU1C681MDN1PH (6100mA) (alternatively - Panny Os-con 470uF 16V d10x13 16SEPC470M+T (6100mA) ) That would boost the Vcore input from 6450mA to 18300mA and the output get boost from 22160mA to 58400mA Of course, the capacity get lowered down to 12000uF from 17600uF for the output and 2040uF from 3600uF. But that is not that important. And as long, as we improve the SMD caps (replace with better and fill the empty places), then it should be much better. As for these four suggested SMD polymers, then use these: Panasonic Tantal-polymer 470uF 2.5V 2R5TPF470M6L ...if the size of the installed ones are 7.3x4.3mm, as I believe it could be. But you yet failed to provide the measurments...

Only 3pcs and only 1200uF and ZL line (not exactly low-ESR Rubycons such as MBC, MBZ) on P4 input Vcore?! What a...! That suxx. I did not like the design on first sight. I made everything I can to my MSI mobo and it got 4pcs of Vcore input caps... Output 8pcs of caps - that seems to be quite low number of caps too, so... To be exactly fair, I did not like the design single bit. (at least is four phases) Could you take a close up on the two big SMD caps into the CPU area? These are tantal caps and todays are produced beautifull 470uF 2.5V KEMET caps (tantal-polymer ones) with kick-ass specs, so they should get there to compensate for the lower capacity of the outputing filtering caps, because eight caps on P4 - that just suxx. Even they are quality (presuming they are genuine) Rubycons. I would like to see also picture from bottom, so we see, what can be added there (or what is missing, such as the two missing pieces into the CPU socket - shamefull). So... 1) the Vcore output caps - easy choice, Nichicon LE polymers 2) the 4 places for the SMD tantal caps into the CPU area - also easy choice, the KEMET mentioned above 3) the Vcore input - there are tough choice, but if your PSU is good, then a 3 pcs of 470uF 16V Nichicon polymers have to do the job... We did not have much choice there, since you want the caps to be smaller, that means polymers and that leave us w/o choice. Don't be alarmed that the capacity is so much lower. The ripple current is so much higher that it will leave you SPEECHLES once you know how ZL suxx... so that should compensate the lower capacity. I see CPU Vrms with 3x 270uF 16V polymers on the input, so... it will work and better that what you got now. Also I know it, but please clarify, that all the caps are d10 in diameter. Also make sure, that you can solder the KEMET caps into the places I see for them - cut out of piece of tough paper a 7.3mm x 4.3mm bit piece and try it. ( http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/315/TPF_OS-262426.pdf ) If it will fit, then 4pcs of this cap number: 2R5TPF470M6L you get. As for the other caps, please clarify, that 12mm height is not going to be a problem, before I go into exact caps. Also polymers not only suxx at low frequency (not case of CPU VRM, be sure about this), but they also introduce noise. We need to add ceramic caps to keep it under control, so... that is why I want detailed picture of the bottom of the PCB under CPU and under the Vcore regulators.

I would like to find someone, who got a experience with NTB Compaq Presario V6314EA. This NTB has got Intel 945GM graphic chipset and Core Duo T2350 processor at 1,86GHz under load, otherwise at 800MHz (x6 or x14) and the question is, if the old, dying HDD, could be replaced for any other 2.5' HDD. Or if one have to buy some special, "supported" by HP only. Ideal would be a SSD drive, to make things faster and less baterry demanding, however the question is, if anybody tried that yet and if this Compaq V6314EA will "know" the new HDD/SSD drive. Current situation is, that the HDD is dying as we speak, data has been backuped (some of them aren't even possible to read anymore) and it is necessary to exchange the HDD for a new one. Anybody got some experience with it?

Oh, I did not choosed anything, I just run it and then press the save button and that was it... I now noticed you mentioned some bug out there... My bad! At least I have reason to move the card to more serious computer and retry, if 395MHz for core clock is not possible stable 400MHz failed.

Aquamark 3 passed at.... ...and now running at 395/278, but I seen artefacts... So 400/278MHz is possible for screenshots, but looks like the rams cannot handle clocks over 275MHz and the GPU is probably top at 390 or 395, where it in both times finished Aquamark 3, but at the 395MHz was the score low, because of the memory errors. At 400MHz it crashed. That call for watercooling

Exactly. And I put it back again and have some preliminary OC results. And things are looking pretty good. The default clock is very low 234/200MHz (sometimes reported as 235MHz). But I managed the old scores again w/o breaking any sweat - so 375/269MHz! http://hwbot.org/submission/2476519_trodas_aquamark_geforce_fx_5600_xt_15849_marks That is IMHO pretty serious overclocking - 234/200 to 375/269MHz But I just finished another Aquamark 3 run at... hold your breath - 375/271MHz! This is nuts... How far it can go?

I would like to report, that the latest v2.54.109 HWbot Aquamark3 worked fine on the very same hardware, on witch it fail miserably when nVidia Vanta LT is used. I just put FX 5600 XT there and all worked well: ...saving the fire correctly to my desktop. So far, so good. But... there is always "but." First at all, where is the screen? Usually, the submited scores contained the screenshot. Now the file is very small and no screenshot? So I was like okay, I provide screenshot in a link (luckily I saved it!) and edit the scores, after all, the mainboard is not AMD but Jetway and the score need to be tied with the correct mobo, so... BUT!!! Aquamark Please run Aquamark now at default settings. If you need more info, read more about Aquamark here (opens in a new window). WTF! I cannot even modify the setting when using the HWbot wrapper, then why it keep telling me this BS?! And why the edit does not work? It should be corrected: http://hwbot.org/submission/2476519_trodas_aquamark_geforce_fx_5600_xt_15849_marks PS. oh yes, after 5min of waiting and swearing it is finally corrected. Ugh. This is insane... So, why these problems and droping the screenshot? IMHO it is important. Mainly because the CPU identification and stuff works much better now...

Thank you very much, guys Glad to hear that I'm not the only one, who is having good time resuscitating and repairing (and then overclocking) some old stuff. I did more work recently (Soltek SL-KT600-R mainboard recapped, for example), but I was in hurry and did not took photos. And also did not managed to run it stable (always error at Prime95 or SuperPi), even with all caps replaced and another PSU used. So a bit fail ATM... But back to the card at hand. The heatsink(s) are Zalman ZM80A-HP - a old passive heatsinks for VGA cards. They cool reasonably well even with nearly next to none airflow. When there is a 120mm fan pointed at them, they could perform pretty well. In fact, the card could run just like you see it on the picture with polymers, when the fan is blowing air at it. At lest it managed thru the Aquamark 3 with only the block of aluminium on the GPU + air. It was hot as hell, tough But after all the years, I don't know, if I should even exchange the TIM under the heatsink. I probably skip it and use the Thermalright white TIM for the heatsink parts and heatpipe connection, that get just added on the basic core block and then we see, how far the overclocking go. I will just run the ATI tool overclocking utility with "find the max frequency" and find it for ram and then for GPU. And we see, if it could get faster with these caps and mods At least I hope for few MHz more on the rams, as I probably will not touch the watercooling results for the core - 235 to 375MHz for core... But if I get hold of any Core2Duo AGP board, then I will probably make a dedicated watercooling loop with some variation of cascade block, that will cool way better that the old simple DangerDen block and then I squeeze most out of the core

Thank you!

Eurocase brand of PSUs, pretty common in Czech republic, but basically horrible, are missing from the HWbot known systems. And it should be added. There is their logo: There are some articles on how horrible they are: http://diit.cz/clanek/eurocase-po-prestavbe-zvladne-specifikovany-vykon http://diit.cz/clanek/shrnuti-rok-se-zdroji (including pictures of the inside: http://diit.cz/clanek/eurocase-po-prestavbe-zvladne-specifikovany-vykon/rozborka-upravene-verze ) ...and all I saying is, that when recapped, they can work reasonably well and there is no reason why they should not by included in the PSUs list as brand. They made mostly 250, 350 and 400W PSUs. Mostly they cannot give even the rated wattage output, lol

Thank you. The HW is old, but "anyone" can do similar on new stuff... Frankly spoken, I have no idea, how much people can do the same soldering, but I wanted to show, that this IS possible. It was not just "some idea" on BadCaps forum, it is possible to do it. Next time I will not be so affraid to do it. Now - time to re-apply the tin and try some O/C Cannot wait to see, if I manage to push the Hynix chips to some serious speeds w/o volt modding.

And now it is time to get back to this card to test one suggestion - stacking ceramic caps! First at all, I replaced every caps for a top-spec Nichicon ones: Gigabyte FX5600XT ---------------------- 1x 1800uF 4V Nichicon CK SMD (d10) (5600XT) PCK0G182MCO1GS 3x 1500uF 2.5V Nichicon LE (d10) (5600XT) PLE0E152MDO1 2x 1200uF 4V Nichicon R5 (d10) (5600XT) RR50G122MDN1 2x 1800uF 6.3V Nichicon LG (d10) (5600XT) LG0J182MDO1 2x 180uF 6.3V Nichicon CG (d5) SMD (5600XT) PCG0J181MCO1GS 17x 10uF 6.3V Murata SMD 0805 (5600XT) GRM21BR70J106KE76L ...and then I tried something, that I never did before. And that is "stacking" the ceramic caps. The thing is, that todays are made caps at size 0805 (that means they are 2mm long and 1.25mm wide!) even at 10uF specs for 6.3V (beware of DC bias, at 6.3V the cap has -60% of his capacity, it holt it's specs up to around 2V, on 2.5V it is like -10% capacity, so...) and therefore I try support overclock of this card by this means From the top side of the card, it was easy. Just push the little cap near the existing one, holt it by small stick and solder quick and carefully from one side (it is 2 x 1.25mm big!) and then from other side and it is done: Unfortunately from the bottom PCB side, there are troubles. There are in very close proximity, where the side-stacked ceramic cap ended up, soldering points to some PCB layers. Not that will lead to instantly soldering the cap to them also, witch in the end could kill the card, or at very least to make it not working well. At first I got an idea, that I could add there just for the soldering some pad, that then I will remove after the soldering and I have guaranted that there is air space between the added cap and the soldering point(s). However upon second tough, when I will remove the pad, then it could damage (rip off) the original PCB and cap from it as well... Also when it get bendt back to the PCB by some manipulation, then it create instant card crash... So that was not a good idea. Second idea looked at first as a very bold move - just place the cap on the top of existing and solder it to it. Hmmm. First problem is, that the stick is notably thickier that the caps lenght are... :lol: Yea, that is fixable Second problem is breath, because even deeper inhale or exhale move the cap and mostly knock it out of the bottom one... But after a while trying I made it and the caps are added - stacked: And now the best thing - the card is still working! :nana: I'm amazed by it myself...

My sis got this board, as attempt to make the Sims2 on her machine run a bit faster over Radeon 9000. The card history is long, but to make long story short, it served me as backup card well, when I killed my FX5700Ultra, and it even show great O/C potencial (under watercooling), but novadays I did not have any use for it, and sis like it. However I noticed that in extra stresfull situations (like in 64k intros fr-019: poem to a horse there http://farb-rausch.de/ or Life Index (curiously not present in download section, but you can grab it there: http://ax2.old-cans.com/life_index.zip ) that the image like to freeze and then re-appear (no change to music or intro run) later. This indicate that the core have a problem. Either overheating, or undervolted on load. Quick test (decreasing O/C to stock) proved it is the second case, and quick look at the card shoved Evercon caps. Now I already suggested them to be added to the bad caps brand, based on my experience with JetWay N2PAP Ultra board, I know what went wrong. There are five 1500uF 6.3V Evercon caps. There are also a Sanyo 510uF 4V Oscon cap too, but only one. I heard that these are excelent, so no change. Tough I planed I used there a 560uF Pannasonic FM one, I skipped this idea, because it turned out to must be a SMD one and the Panny it is not. Now what we all waiting for - the results. The Gigabite 5600XT card is what XT mark in nVidia. Pure crap. Come with default 235/200MHz clocks. With watercooling I manage it to unbeliable 375/268MHz. Now the question is, what happen on passive only cooling (Zalman ZM80-HP) in fanless case, yet with exchanged caps from Evercon ones to Samxon GC ones. Why Samxons? Because Pannasonic FM ones are too big (won't fit under the cooler, even the Samxons are very close - curiously enough - the Evercon ones are even 3mm less tall that the Samxons!) and because Big Pope was very helpfull for providing this small testing sample to me free of charge There is another reason for it, I just recapped the whole sis mainboard with Samxons and gained excelent results, but that is for other thread I preparing to create. Anyway, the clock results. First at all, core has to get into 355MHz to be stable - yet this is still good, considering that the card is not watercooled anymore like it was: http://ax2.old-cans.com/s.php?p=wc&id=30&c=8&d=1&v=v2 (illustration pic, DangerDen Maze4 GPU block on FX5200) Now the rams, well, they started crapping out a very little on 283MHz now! That is pure 15MHz increase, just for caps exchange. Well, for stable run i backed down to 275MHz just to be sure, but then again - the demos won't stop anymore like they used to do before and 275MHz is still a 7MHz increase Very very very good, if you ask me Of course, the card is oldie crap and nothing help it, but... The overclock from 235/200 to 355/275 is impressive. Is not it? Any mainly - stable! And there is a valid lesson learned from this card. Most of the big caps (with exception to one), could be replaced with also SMD variants. They are usually with lower specs, so no interest from me, but... but the orientation of the caps not seems to be right. The white parts of the PCB, that says "ground" are in the wrong place. When I followed them, the caps are reversed and quickly start bulging... So I have to replace them once more. Therefore lesson learned - never trust the mainboard ground orientation for anything - especially when it did not seems to be right when soldered caps. Therefore measure first. Also pay attention witch caps hole has a rectangle around the hole - that is the positive hole! Always. Even in this, reversed example.

//minor rant, when looking at the score - these cards support PCIE v3.0 at x16... yet they run at PCIE v1.1 at x8... That is just sad. But the score are very high... yet no wonder - 5GHz i7, dual 7900 cards... this must fly and make the bench in matter of seconds

What does the L12 mod to do on the Duron? I did not want the x5 multi forever - only when I force it by wires on the CPU legs...

Order? LOL You probably rather find it on scrapyard somewhere... I got mine from friend with broken off two main caps from it, still working. Soldered one replacement, waiting for another. Still working, lol. (overheating a lot, completely w/o heatsink - the green PCB under the chip from other side had turned brown, lol) If I ever want to O/C the card, then I need a serious heatsink. At 100/125MHz default it is hot as hell, even when 120mm fan at 7V is blowing the air at the card from nearby PCI slots... (you can see the missing cap, lol) M$ is limiting backwards compatibility? Not uncommon at all. Good reason why not let them to do it... The KDW package is looking very promising, thanks for the link! However in this case I rather wait and assist you to make the wrapper functional on Vanta LT and then on Win2k... but drivers for my HP laser printer that refuse to work under Win2k could be a good target to KDW usage! Chaotic files after install - bug of VC 2008 redist? Another reason to drop this and move to something that works, IMHO.

I can run at 100x5 easily: 500MHz AMD Duron 750: http://valid.canardpc.com/tzu5v3 ...but that is only when I switch the switches on the mainboard to the x5 multiplier on the Jetway V266B. If these switches are left on auto (as are on the target MSI 6340), it just did not post. Anyone have any ideas why this is happening and how to fix it?