Killed my Titan

[lysaer]

Used some thermal epoxy to hold some heatsinks onto the card, as I was removing one it pulled the IC off, the legs are still on the board, but it doesn't look like i can solder it back onto the IC.

 

does anyone know what these IC's are and where to get them, I tried googling the code but nothing came up

 

http://postimg.org/image/6xsb4youb/

 

Thanks in advance

[riska]

Thats not a ic it is an tantalum capasitor at 330 microfarad and 2.5v

[xxbassplayerxx]

Those are just tantalum capacitors. 330 is the uF rating. They're not hard to find and they're not expensive!

 

EDIT: Ninja'd. For the record, they don't need any sort of heatsink, either.

[lysaer]

I'll have a look on the rs electronics site now

 

Thanks a lot guys

[lysaer]

either of these ok then ?

 

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/tantalum-capacitors/7372838/

 

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/tantalum-capacitors/0147639/

[Eeky NoX]

Best place to get a quick answer, great reflex ...but go for zombie ^^

[lysaer]

Best place to get a quick answer, great reflex ...but go for zombie ^^

 

go for zombie ? I'm confuzzled

 

 

Also I can't seem to desolder the copper legs from the PCB, would it be ok to solder a couple of pieces of wire on the original copper legs then solder the new capacitor to the wire ? Do I need to use a specific wire or does it just need to make sure it can handle 2.5v ?

 

Thanks again all

[xxbassplayerxx]

You can probably just stick this one right where the old one was and solder to the old legs. The solder used in the production of computer components has much higher melting temperatures than standard solder. If you want to work with it well, a hot air station is the best.

[lysaer]

You can probably just stick this one right where the old one was and solder to the old legs. The solder used in the production of computer components has much higher melting temperatures than standard solder. If you want to work with it well, a hot air station is the best.

 

ok cool, it's a bit awkward anyways as it is right next to the large grey chip which I think is a VRM, so actually getting the iron in there is a real pain, it is the capacitor fourth from the bottom

[xxbassplayerxx]

That's a choke! That, the mosfets (the small, square black chips to the right of the chokes), and a few other components make up the VRM.

Edited March 21, 2013 by xxbassplayerxx

[lysaer]

That's a choke! That, the mosfets (the small, square black chips to the right of the chokes, and a few other components make up the VRM.

 

lol i a not that great at identifying anything lol, i am pretty good at soldering though

[xxbassplayerxx]

Funny... I'm just the opposite. I can identify stuff but my volt mods are horrendous

[Bobnova]

You can almost certainly run without that one capacitor. You'll have a tiny bit more ripple, but odds are it won't make a noticeable difference.

[zzolio]

just run without it, no problem

 

if you want to run with ln2 then solder a new capacitor on

[lysaer]

You can almost certainly run without that one capacitor. You'll have a tiny bit more ripple, but odds are it won't make a noticeable difference.

 

just run without it, no problem

 

if you want to run with ln2 then solder a new capacitor on

 

I'm fairly confident I can solder another one on, I don't run with ln2 but I do like to run high overclocks with my chiller

[lysaer]

Before I go soldering this on the wrong way, which way onto the PCB should this cap go?

 

 

Thanks in advance

[xxbassplayerxx]

The side with the darker bar is the positive leg. That should go to the side closest to the chokes like the grey bar on the other caps.

[Bobnova]

The side with the darker bar is the positive leg. That should go to the side closest to the chokes like the grey bar on the other caps.

This.

 

 

Unlike electrolytic and polymer caps where the - pin is marked, tantalums mark the + pin.

[lysaer]

It's all soldered back together, I haven't had a chance to test it yet but I'm confident it's all fine.

 

I opted to solder 2 wires parallel to the board pointing upwards so they ended in between where the gap is between the capacitors, then I mounted the capacitor there. It was easier than trying to fiddle with the leg next to the choke.

 

It came out pretty neat, I <3 my flux pen.

 

EK block is on and I will give it a test Sunday as I am off to the gf's tonight.

 

Thanks a lot for all the help everyone I'll let you know if it's all good Monday most likely.

[xxbassplayerxx]

Photos!

[lysaer]

Photos!

 

It's all already taped up safely and blocks are on :-(

 

And I'm never ever ever taking the ek bridge off again, getting those o-ring gaskets on was worse than soldering on the cap, it took me like 2 hours to get all 6 in place lol.

 

Haven't had time to test it still though was at the theatre last night seeing Wicked, but I'm confident in my soldering skills so all should be good