bartx

Shipping costs are not included. Anyway it's cheap, usually doesn't execeed 10 euro for 1-2 items, shipped by airmail everywhere.

Time to move on... it's last sale of my cooling stuff. I won't be making any of those anymore, so you can catch some stuff in nice price You'll get complete sets with screws etc., normal quality as it always was. Prices are lowered. RAM Pot (copper nickel plated base + alu top) 60€ (was 75€) - all gone RAM Alu heatsinks - 20 € (was 25€) - all gone RAM Copper Heatsinks - 40€ (was 50€) - 8 pairs left CPU Mounting kit for phase change, 54 mm evap inc AM4 holes - 40€ (was 50€) - 1 left GPU Mounting kit for phase change, 54mm evap - 30€ (was 40€) - 2 left GPU Mounting kit for phase change, 1,5" evap (chilly) - 20€ (was 30€) - 1 left CPU Backplate with AM4 holes, anodized alu - 5€ - 18 left Kaby Lake IHS - 15€ - 4-7 left I've got also one unfinished single stage cooler with 13000 btu compressor, I can put it together for 500€ (was 600€) and attach gpu mounting kit for free. - gone

Silver one is still in testing, but I've made some copper ones. From last time, I've got also results from single stage, clock was still the same as before, but it was just one test. For now I can confirm that it works at least as good as original one and won't crack your cpu in a second, if you mount it properly Probably you're the most interested in ln2 results, which I don't have right now. There is also an "user factor", what means that probably everybody has it own method to mount the pot, choose the spacer or remove the glue or whatever. Some of them will be shipped right now, some are still left. Hopefully some more results will be shown in this thread. by users, who receive those. You may give it a try I did my best, when designing and machining them. As you may notice, I also finished inner pocket with sandpaper to remove the toolmarks.

sold and shipped, please move

Confirmed BH-5, hopefully somebody has another one to make a pair. I have only this one Guarantee not DOA. 15 euro + shipping

Silver one

If you have some questions for me, send me a PM. I'd like to make some improvements in design in this week hopefully and send it for testing, so update will be soon.

At first, errors maybe caused by damaged chips or damaged balls below the chips (crack). Alloy used to soldering electronics components after 2005-2006 is 97% tin. Pure tin generally doesn't like exposure to cold and it's likely to corrode after some time - if you look at some socket A boards, when they still used lead-tin alloy all soldering places look shiny. Modern boards doesn't look like that. If you have damaged chips, nothing can be done in this way without a replacing them. If you have physically damaged stick for replacing the IC, then it can be replaced (you need a donor). If there is issue with the balls (good company which repairs electronics, can check it via rentgen) you may try reflowing the balls or reballing the chips with lead-tin alloy (it's 60% tin and 40% lead, so huge difference). 97% tin soldering alloy has melting point aroud 240C. Plus you have to warm whole pcb up to 150C to avoid any bending issues with temperature. I don't recommend heating it in the oven, because if you heat whole board to 250C you may find you IC unsoldered (especially double sided). I've got some experience with it, couple years ago I was successfully resolding whole chips from cards like HD4870 or 8800GT, they have almost 1000-1200 balls below it. When do you have uber rare sticks it may be worth a try, otherwise no. Not to mention nobody guarantee you working after repair.

Working lately on improved Kaby Lake IHS. Ended up with this. In comparison to original one it has some advantages: - 20% bigger contact area - top surface is perfectly flat, not "almost flat" after sanding - design is optimized for more rigidity - I made couple of different depths of core pocket on the bottom, to test which one is the best, original one has 0,35mm, I've got 0,35, 0,40 and 0,45mm (plus I want to use adhesive on the bottom to protect pcb), glue thickness is 0,15mm, glue needs to be removed completely in this case. Actually they're going to be tested, hopefully some feedback will be posted very soon in this thread. It's just a preparation for making it from silver.

Only some holes on the top and will be done

50€ + shipping

Little teaser

Cooler like this may be worth 300-350 euro, no idea for what load it's tuned. I sold modified Prometeia last year for 400 euro (-30C @ 250W) and it was sold again some time after it for 360 euro if I remember correctly. I think it has similar performance, but it has nice case So if you decide to put it on ebay and sell for at example 350 euro, then you have 10% fee from sale amount + shipping costs (let's say 50), so it's 40 euro and 3,5% paypal fee also from total amount so it's another 14 euro. Selling it for 350 give you 296... Just my three words

If you want to use vcore from this card, you have regulation from 1.2 to 1.9V or even more, if you want to use vmem it was probably up to 2.5V. Together with my friend ivanov we used it for vcore on Asrock 4Core Dual sata (ASRock 4Core Dual SATA Frankenstein) - see last page of this thread. Some results (for 7900GS I used only vcore from 8800GTX). bartx`s 3DMark2001 SE score: 87060 marks with a GeForce 7900 GS bartx`s 3DMark03 score: 30552 marks with a GeForce 8600 GT 256MB GDDR3

bump, last one left

You have a point. I wanted to say, that it's better chance to find good set when binning 2000+ RAM than 1600. In case, when you can buy them all below 50 euro in my opinion it's pointless to buy 1600, when you may have something much better in almost the same price.

:D Look for something with at least 2000MHz clock in default (PSC), otherwise it's not worth testing.

Friends asked me to make it for them, so I made little more Desoldered memory and clean cut on CNC, so there are no short circuits on boards. Wires (8AWG, silicone) are attached. I can guarantee that it's not DOA and gives an output voltage - memory/core but that's all. I assume that whoever buy it, knows what to do with this. They will have vsense wires attached, helps a lot. 60 euro + shipping per piece, two available

I was wondering how much load can handle my single stage cooler. I've build recently a new load tester with 180-580W range. So far I had only 350W and it seems it's not enough. I also wanted to test delta T between evap and heater according to some info from people, that they go into positive temperatures on hot (6 core) cpus. Wattage is the last row on the screen on the bottom, temperature on the display is evap temp (upper one) and heater temp (copper block with 5 cartidge heaters for injection moulds on the bottom). Thermal compound is Arctic MX-2. Maximum load for this cooler (19k btu comp) is around 500W. 580W only for short time operation and as you can see delta temp increased for about 6C. So that's the limit. But still temps are negative. Delta can be lowered a bit when using better thermal compound and by better insulation of the heater block. I'm posting it also to give some information for people who are wondering why their phase change coolers (built 5-10 years ago) are not handling the load properly, when benching on modern cpus. They were tuned usually for 250W, with smaller compressors. Also evaps used in those days are not good in loads bigger than 250W. They're still good for low end stuff, but for high end it's a disaster. Big thanks for nachtfalke for a lot information and help.

Who will be interested in copper heatsinks? Will be available (finally) at the end of the January. Nickel plated.

Looking for couple dead 8800 GTX / Ultras with working VRM. Without cooler to save on shipping.

No idea how it will be handled by pot manufacturers. If you need something let me know.

Thanks, really appreciate that.

I"ve read some news about it, but I want to confirm. Is AM4 going to use 90x54mm mounting holes? I want to make a batch of CPU brackets and backplates and I want it to be compatibile with new socket. Thanks

Send me a diameter of the evap and the picture on PM.