bartx

You have a point. I wanted to say, that it's better chance to find good set when binning 2000+ RAM than 1600. In case, when you can buy them all below 50 euro in my opinion it's pointless to buy 1600, when you may have something much better in almost the same price.

:D Look for something with at least 2000MHz clock in default (PSC), otherwise it's not worth testing.

Friends asked me to make it for them, so I made little more Desoldered memory and clean cut on CNC, so there are no short circuits on boards. Wires (8AWG, silicone) are attached. I can guarantee that it's not DOA and gives an output voltage - memory/core but that's all. I assume that whoever buy it, knows what to do with this. They will have vsense wires attached, helps a lot. 60 euro + shipping per piece, two available

I was wondering how much load can handle my single stage cooler. I've build recently a new load tester with 180-580W range. So far I had only 350W and it seems it's not enough. I also wanted to test delta T between evap and heater according to some info from people, that they go into positive temperatures on hot (6 core) cpus. Wattage is the last row on the screen on the bottom, temperature on the display is evap temp (upper one) and heater temp (copper block with 5 cartidge heaters for injection moulds on the bottom). Thermal compound is Arctic MX-2. Maximum load for this cooler (19k btu comp) is around 500W. 580W only for short time operation and as you can see delta temp increased for about 6C. So that's the limit. But still temps are negative. Delta can be lowered a bit when using better thermal compound and by better insulation of the heater block. I'm posting it also to give some information for people who are wondering why their phase change coolers (built 5-10 years ago) are not handling the load properly, when benching on modern cpus. They were tuned usually for 250W, with smaller compressors. Also evaps used in those days are not good in loads bigger than 250W. They're still good for low end stuff, but for high end it's a disaster. Big thanks for nachtfalke for a lot information and help.

Who will be interested in copper heatsinks? Will be available (finally) at the end of the January. Nickel plated.

Looking for couple dead 8800 GTX / Ultras with working VRM. Without cooler to save on shipping.

No idea how it will be handled by pot manufacturers. If you need something let me know.

Thanks, really appreciate that.

I"ve read some news about it, but I want to confirm. Is AM4 going to use 90x54mm mounting holes? I want to make a batch of CPU brackets and backplates and I want it to be compatibile with new socket. Thanks

Send me a diameter of the evap and the picture on PM.

Canada has 120V 60Hz, Europe 230V 50Hz in case, that both of you forgot about it

One hwbot member asked me to make one for his single stage, so I've made two, maybe someone will need it to. For 1,5" chilly evap without groove for seger ring. Compatibility with most GPU, including those low/mid end with 43x43mm holes. 40 euro + shipping

That one was not a masterpiece, this one is better For now I've got compatibility with F1 Dark (thanks to GtiJason for dimensions), my CPU pot and 54mm evap, which is commonly used in phase change coolers. Mounting it together is way more convienient and there is also a clearance for RAM pot. CPU is not in the center, but it was the only way to make it working. I'm not sure about copatibility with fat non tapered pots. I think that 50 euro will be proper price for this set. I'd like to make 5-10 pieces depends on interest. If anybody needs it for a certain pot, I'd need dimensions to check.

Yes, I decided to make AM3 holes, when I was talking to my friend. It's way too close to RAM slots (only 1,5mm clearance)

Friend of mine asked me looong time ago to make sth like this for this board with no holes. Having a while today I ended up with something like this. Still it needs some modifications, but looks like it's working. I made new 4mm thick aluminium backplate. It was designed for pot with 45x45mm square base or 54mm round. No idea how it will work with most popular pots. Bracket is 8mm thick to make some stiffness with such thin walls. Not to mention about capacitors and RAM slots, which are very close to the bracket. Assembly is really not convienient considering fact, that it has to be done with half-opened socket, but I don't have idea how to make it in different way.

People are asking sometimes about it, so I decided to make a guide. Please make it sticky if possible. It's for all single stage cooling, including a chillers too. It's for the information and safety purposes. For cascades it's one more rule - do not start 2nd stage, before 1st is not cold enough. But cascades have more protection devices, temperature relays etc. Phase Change User Guide (Single Stage): 1. It’s plug and play. No need to refill gas or any maintenance. 2. Mount cooler on the CPU/GPU, start the platform, warm up a TIM till 40-45C on evap, then start the cooler. 3. After first (cold) start wait till cooler reaches its operating temperature and compressor get warm. Then you can start running some benches. When compressor is hot, it will take less time. 4. Full performance is reached when compressor is running hot. That’s operating temperature - even 90-110C. 5. Try do not move suction line, when it’s frozen. Bending may cause a damage. 6. After turn off wait 10-15 min till next start. Pressures have to balance. Otherwise compressor won’t start, protection will kick in and you’ll have to wait anyway. In bigger compressors it may turn out fuses in the grid, especially when you have a lot of devices connected. 7. Evap will get dirty after some time. It’s good to clean it sometimes with sandpaper or scotch brite pad. 8. For better results you may add some active cooling to compressor, it can give couple degrees. Especially when cooler is on cosy case with small condenser. Prometeia is the best example. 9. If you have a break (dinner or sth) leave it running. After turning it off, you’ll have pretty quick defrost of whole platform. 10. Ambient temperature affect evap temperature. Lower ambient = lower evap temperature. 11. And last one – if something went wrong. If you accidentally broke a pipe/suction line and gas will start leaking turn everything off, let it escape and open the windows to improve ventilation. Together with gas, oil may be escaping too making an oil stains. Just put a paper towel/shirt whatever to stop it. It will stop after 2-3 minutes. Leaking gas may cause frosts on skin, but you have to keep fingers/skin for a longer while exactly in the leak place. Single stages are charged with R404/R507/R134, these are commonly used refrigerants in AC, fridges etc., they’re not flammable or dangerous for people, but may cause dizziness when concentration in the air is significant. Just like dry ice fumes. After gas is gone and open pipes are left, seal them with tape/rubber plug whatever to prevent contamination the oil and look for somebody to repair it. If you break pipe in the fridge or hose in car AC. it will look exactly the same.

First time when I saw exteme overclocking was this video. It's from Tomshardware article. It's soo cool, even today

You can drop me a PM

What compressor is there? Maybe it was tuned for sth like 120W load long time ago, what is idle in your case

For phase change I use only armaflex foam. Two layers 6mm thick. No eraser, no grease itc. Temeperature is rather constant, so there is no issue with water. If you start the unit, let it working all the time. You can't defrost whole system, then is ok.

Still waiting for the vice to start copper plates, ordered two weeks ago and might be in this week But in the meanwhile...

I never heard that anybody received money from bankrupted company. I was cheated twice by ordinary people in Poland in auction service - Allegro. Despite that they're both convicted (jail + they have to return money, that was written in sentence which I received) and it was within one country, nobody ever contacted me. I only received money, because Allegro has an insurance policy up to 2500 euro, but I had to go the police and report a fraud. If it was a company, they have probably a lot more debt to pay including salaries for people, invoices, rent etc.

Count me in too

Mounting plate for RAM with AM3 and 939 holes. It can be used with phase change cooler, waterblock, even cpu pot. Compatibile with my ram heatsinks and EK ones (109,4 mm distance between mounting holes). 8 mm thick 30 euro + shipping

I'm going to handle copper heatsinks in next month, I want to make prototype and calculate the price. I'll keep you updated. Teaser pic