knopflerbruce

I have LCBBE X2 chips. Seen a few x2 4400+ models with this, and the odd x2 3800+. Never saw an x2 4800+ or FX60 with it, though. Also, Opterons have it, sometimes (less for 939, but plenty of 940 opterons with this type of batch) I don't really know how part numbers are supposed to work, but there are plenty of other examples - E3 vs E6 venice chips come to mind (they have different part numbers, too, and are distinguishable). Then you have F2 vs F3 Windsor CPUs for AM2, G1 vs G2 Brisbanes (both with different part numbers), and for some Athlon II models you can have Regor, Propus or Deneb cores (Athlon II X2 220 in particular) - but with the same part number. You also have different part numbers for different wattage bins, though I'm not sure if those can be easily identified through software. (like, the 4400+ comes in an ADV and an ADA flavor) The question is just where you want to draw the line, and I also wonder if this was talked about some 15 years ago, too (it was noticed, and all of us 939 heads knew that these were dual cores with one core disabled - but there was also the question of "category inflation" from what I remember, so the decision was to keep them together)

First: This is not a FS thread (I will make it when I'm ready, in the appropriate section) - this is just a meta discussion. It's been 10+ years since I posted results on HWBot, and I'm getting a bit tired of moving with all the old CPUs I used for grinding my gold cups and such. Certain things have some emotional value, which I will keep in case I want to have some OCing fun later, but some platforms/CPUs I know for sure I will never touch again. So, if you have like 100-200 CPUs for a particular socket and each individual one isn't really all that valueable, what really is the best way to actually sell something like that? Just put up one giant lot per socket and let some other grinder decide what to do with spares? I never made a proper excel sheet with an overview of which CPUs were good or bad, as I used to know this by heart when I was active and I also got alot of stuff after I (practically speaking) quit, and those have just been stored since forever, so cherry picking isn't really an option, either. It should be added that shipping costs from Norway to anywhere are nasty, at least the base fee for any trackable and insured package - so it would make no sense to buy like 10 CPUs and have them shipped with tracking (the exact formula in Euros for shipping to Europe is 24.34 base cost + 2.13 per kilo rounded up, so a 2.2kg package would have a shipping cost of 24.34+3*2.13=30.73 €). Most people would be better off just getting single CPUs or a small number from China then due to shipping alone. Unless one chooses unregistered letter mail. If this thread belongs elsewhere, feel free to move it

Congratulations! If it helps, I have a feeling you were hitting the limit of it no matter the temps - from what I recall based on my chips, in general they started acting funny below that point and stop scaling as much. (unlike the 130nm ones) But I have to say, KABYE went under my radar as good candidates here (although I know the reputation of CABYE, I just found no good production weeks for the 3700+/4000+ BY chips). What's the rest of the date code? I had a KABYE 0540CPMW once according to a list I made in 2007.

Updated the listings with what has been sold so far, and dropped the price on the remaining items by quite a bit.

I've got some LN2 gear that I don't think I'll ever be using. Most of these, I barely used when I was very active here, much less so after that Time to give these items a new home! #1: EK Inflection Point CPU pot with LGA1151 kit, foam and paperwork. This package was sealed until I opened it for inspection and photos. Bought to help out an OCer friend who was the manager of a local OC store and had these units forever. I probably had some plans to use them, but clearly it never happened. I will just assume that these have the mounting hardware that they're supposed to have, as the content is (almost) untouched by me. There was a tube of Gelid Extreme inside, which I decided to keep. $SOLD (or make me an offer) #2: EK Inflection Point CPU pot. Same as above, just without the foam and LGA1151 kit. Only got one of those, unfortunately. $100 (or make me an offer) #3: Small mini alu GPU pot with insulation and thermal probe. I don't recall where I got this, nor what probe it is or if it works. The pot itself should be fine. I think I used this on some very lowend GPU once or twice like a decade ago - low profile cards. Very basic unit, but I guess good enough for what it was used on, anyway. If my memory is right, I used a clamp on it to "mount" it onto the GPU. $30 (or make me an offer) #4: Long alu GPU pot with some mounting gear (not complete, I think). No idea where I got this. Probably never used it. Might have been from a friend who fiddled around with OCing around 2006-2007. One of the brackets is slightly damaged, and I assume some hardware is missing. No idea how it performs. $SOLD (or make me an offer) #5: Kingpin Tek 9 Fat GPU pot with insulation. I don't know what revision this is (feel free to PM me if you happen to know!). This one I used a handful of times, I suspect most recently on an 8800GS a little over a decade ago: https://hwbot.org/submission/2195802_knopflerbruce_aquamark_geforce_8800_gs_384_mb_368246_marks I have no idea what accessories this one was supposed to come with. What you see is what you get. $SOLD (or make me an offer) #6: Copper GPU pot with thermal probe and insulation. I don't know if the probe works, or what type it is. I also don't recall where I got this one, either (apparently, I buy these while drunk - as I usually have good memory on this kind of stuff...). I suspect it's an old leftover from some of the Norwegian overclockers that retired when I was around, but this is just speculation on my part. Fairly simple design, but it is heavy. It comes with one mounting bracket, no screws (but I assume whoever made it made sure some sort of standard screws would fit). $125 (or make me an offer) I live in Norway, so shipping isn't the cheapest through the state company (Posten Norge). The rates are 286 NOK + 26 NOK per kilogram of weight to Europe, and 286 NOK + 62 NOK per kilogram of weight elsewhere. I can ship to whatever destinations Posten Norge will ship to. I can also do it by DHL, but then the buyer has to send me the paperwork as I have literally NO experience with DHL and I don't want to make any mistakes. Also, if my prices are insane or I made mistakes - feel free to send me a friendly message and tell me Putting a good price tag is hard when you've been gone for so long. I live in the Oslo area, within reasonable distance from both the airport and the main train station, so I'm able to meet people there if they wish to do so. I accept Paypal, in either USD or NOK. NOK cash-in-hand if I end up meeting someone is also an option.

I completely forgot Turing based GPUs. 1660 Super to 2080ti.

So, I have a few GPUs that I suspect have a dead memory module. At least some nvidia diagnostic utility (MATS or MODS, whatever you want to call it) reports a gazillion read errors on just one particular OC on each card. The Windows error message is Core 43, which is kindof like "something is wrong somewhere". I figured it might be worth a shot to pay someone to try to fix these things. Swapping a memory IC isn't THAT complicated, I think? The cards seem OK otherwise. But, I don't know who I could ask. I'm located in Norway, and there are no advanced electronic repair shops around here that I can think of. Maybe there are some OK ones in Sweden, Denmark, Germany etc? Any advice? RMA is not an option, though - I got no receipts here.

I just received a supposedly defective Rampage IV Extreme that seems to at least give a picture on the screen. The downside is that it came with no heatsinks whatsoever, so I'm looking for such things. Preferably the original cooler, but I'm not using it for anything that's very heavy on the motherboard itself, so using the waterblock passively might be enough.

I was going through some old stuff, and found what I believe are a pair of old OC Panels for ASUS Rampage III Extreme. Are these still useful for anyone benchmarking old CPUs? I don't think I ever became friends with the X58 platform and didn't use them even once myself. In case someone knows something about them, what boards do they work with other than the R3E? Maybe R3BE? If it's unclear, it's the one on the left here I'm talking about.

Technically, this is not about overclocking, but I figured I'd ask here anyway. I got a batch of dead GPUs. Some seem more dead than others, and I suspect that some of them have faulty VRAM. Once in a while I find cards that run less unstable when underclocking the memory, which is not important for my use anyway (Folding@Home). So, the question is, are there people out there who could modify RTX 20x0 BIOSes to run the VRAM, say, on half speed compared to stock? if I could get a couple of them to run reasonably well, I'd be very happy.

Not sure if this REALLY belongs here, but anyway... I got a few artifacting Turing GPUs from a batch of "as is" cards I got for cheap, and I wonder how I can fix them. One thing I thought about was the possibility of disabling certain parts of the GPU by using a modded BIOS. is this something anyone in here has been messing around with? Or maybe I can send them to the manufacturer to have them look at it?

I'm not really officially retired, just lost access to LN2, and need to get a few things sorted so I can get back to grinding some stuff again. I used to be a lazy student, now I work overtime almost every day, and keep getting involved in different projects that eat up most of my spare time.

I might have a bunch of unused fullcover blocks for you. When I go where they're located, I'll send you a list with more details, if you're interested. Sadly, shipping from Norway is very expensive, but if I could ship from Hamburg whenever I go there, shipping costs will most likely be cut in half due to lower rates in Germany.

Where are you located?

Maybe this one, for Europeans? https://kartony24.eu/en_US/p/Postal-cardboard-box-315x255x45mm-50-pcs./588

What about this? https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-14192BL/Retail-Boxes/Colored-Mailers-13-x-10-x-2-Black

Very nice for US folks, I think ? 072780 must be perfect for ATX mobos? Not sure what "roll side" means, tho.

GPUs come in all sorts of dimensions, though. Probably harder to find something appropriate? I was thinking: just follow atx specs + a few mm for mobos, and you can order 3-4 different sizes and be good to go in almost all cases (4P servers excluded). I wonder if regular mobo boxes have some standard designation, like FEFCO standards or whatever.

I remember back in the day, sometimes I would receive motherboards in brown cardboard boxes meant for mobos that came with no accessories, just the board itself (perhaps these boards were from ASUS?). Replacing the bigger, stock boxes would be helpful to save storage space - and also for labeling boxes more easily. But, where can one buy boxes like this?

What sort of fluid would you use for "water" cooling in a siberian winter? Not anything common, I would assume. And aren't heat pipe based coolers bad when the internal fluid is too cold to evaporate?

Just a thought: why not just set the bar a certain temperature for whatever cooling medium you use? Not that I have a good suggestion on what that temp should be. EKoolant freezes at -15C, so it's good for some subzero benching during winter. I was going to suggest 0C, but given the safe temps for these premixed fluids that might not be ideal.

I can't see why tap water is not OK. Everyone has it (at least in the overclocking scene), and it's even easier to use than regular water cooling setups, which are allowed. Mother nature isn't a "chiller".

My 2 cents on this as of tonight: the point in having the enthusiast league is to keep the cost down for the OC'er. At least that's what iit seems from the explanations here: Overclocking, overclocking, and much more! Like overclocking. Perhaps one wants to remove the skill barrier that comes when you need to start insulating as well, that seems a part of it based on the Enthusiast league description. In the end it doesn't seem to be about operating temperature itself, but the ambient temperature. This is the only line in the rules about this: "Enthusiast: ambient cooling, registered >1y". "Ambient" simply means the temperature of the surroundings, so if you put your rig outside in Sibiria at winter time, ambient will be awesome - comparable to something between single stage and dry ice. That's just how it is. You can't have a set of rules where you can run your AC unit full force in the summertime in Australia, but someone living in Eastern Europe can't even open the wndow at night (skill level and cost = 0, AC units are expensive). With this in mind I'd be surprised if hooking your water block up to the water supply or putting some ice collected outsde on top of your radiator are things that are not meant for a league like this, either - whether or not it can be called "ambient" (answer: no). Both cooling methods are almost free and require very little skill to set up, so it makes no sense to compare good use of ones surroundings to phase change units and such.

Go ahead, photochop them all if you like Pretty straight-on with good lightning (thanks to my source, I don't know how to handle a camera).

I didn't know this one wasn't listed anywhere at all, though... not a single hit on the part number on google. Funny, as I have a few somewhere in my trays all from the same source.