buildzoid

28C is bad? I've had to put up with 30+ during the day.

So I got myself a 7870K and on my A88X-PRO the Vcore stays white up to 1.6V it's pink from 1.675V and red from 1.725V. So do Godavari chips handle higher voltages than Kaveri or is my motherboard just being dumb?

Wow that's awesome. Well now I know which Fury I'm gonna be buying.

Damn man that's awesome. I'm really glad I bought a 7870K and not an 860K for my A88X system.

Can it do 5Ghz around 1.5V on watercooling? I'm worried that I'm going to kill my current 3960X pretty soon so I want a back up that clocks similarly well.

I don't know it just sound like a bad idea putting 3.3V on a pin that says in it's sheet that it outputs 1.5V. Also could you explain some of the terminology that IR uses on their datasheets? I can usually get around intersil and some other data sheets because they all use similar terminology but IR's data sheets don't so I can't figure out what to do with them. For example what is VRTN and VGPU? or in the case or the IR3567B what is VSEN and VRTN? I always figure that the VRTN was the voltage feedback pin but I never got that confirmed. Thanks so much for everything.

Ok so I've hunted down the data sheets for both of them. There's a 1.5V Power OK signal on the VRAM PWM(APW7088) but the datasheet for CHL8266 is in typical IR fashion borderline useless so I have no idea what the power good pin for it is and I have doubts about putting 3.3V on the Power OK pin of the VRAM PWM.

How much would it cost to have it shipped to EU?

Any chances of doing this with an arduino?

CLC = closed loop liquid cooler. The GTX 590 doesn't support proper GPU water blocks so I ziptied some Coolermaster Seidon 120Vs to it. Core temps were good with this cooling setup when the card still worked. So I should find the pull up pin for the CHiL CHL8266 that controls Vcore or should I pull up the Vmem controller which I can't find any datasheets for?

When I start Heaven from Unigine.exe it starts normally but if I try to run it through the HWBot wrapper nothing gets render I just get a blackscreen with 6000+ FPS in the top right corner of the screen. Any ideas on what might be going wrong?

Could you not just run a live stream for the length of the attempt and ask some people to watch? over the stream. That way no one has to fly anywhere. On a side note I've been thinking about how to make overclocking live streams less boring and I think the problem is that the people watching just have no idea what is going on most of the time even if they are into overclocking. So maybe commenting over what you're doing during the stream or perhaps someone very experienced in overclocking could do commentary over the live event. And I mean proper commentary where they try to hype the audience and analyze and explain the various things the benchers are doing.

I know I did something wrong but so far the only visible issue is the messed up PCI-e slot connector. As for using 2 E-powers. They are sold out ATM and even if they weren't I'm broke. History of the card: Pulled of stock cooler and replaced it with CLCs. Card worked and ran Heaven at stock clocks with CLCs core temps stayed in the 50s Pulled of CLCs and removed vcore gpu1 and vcore gpu2 inductors and controllers Soldered on E-power in process spilled solder on PCI-e slot connector connector was shorted Disconnected 2 PCI-e data pins when trying to remove solder from them Reconnected PCI-e pins Checked resistance from where the E-power connects to the card and GND. 0.5 ohms which is OK because the 2 GF110 cores are connected to the E-power in parallel. Set E-power to 1.2V Reattached CLCs and put small aluminum HS on bridge chip. Tried to run card. Card didn't start. Reconnected PCI-e pins fell of. Reattached the PCI-e pins a second time with glue and solder. Checked pins with DMM for shorts no shorts found. 1 other PCI-e pin comes of during soldering. Checked it with a DMM it's a GND pin and I didn't bother fixing it. Rattached CLCs and tried to run card. Card didn't work. Attached voltage read wires to card. Tried to run card found that Vmem GPU1 is at 0.3V not 1.55V like it should be. Cleaned up soldering job on reattached PCI-e pins to try help improve contact in PCI-e slot. Bypassed Vmem GPU1 VRM with 3 18AWG wires from Vmem GPU2 VRM after removing inductors of VMEM GPU1. Both sets of memory are now supplied 1.55V(checked with DMM) But card still doesn't boot. POST code on MB is still not working. Now I'm thinking of trying to pull of the VMEM GPU1 controller since it might have a PWR_GOOD pin and I also wanna try connect the card to a 1X PCI-e connection because then I avoid the damaged data pins.

I have tested the card before the e-power but with the CLCs. It worked just fine but didn't clock very well. I checked resistance vcc to gnd it's fine. IDK how powerful the old e-powers were but the current e-power is ok upto 900a according to Roman and I only need 600a. As for other shorts I've checked visually if anything looked luke it might be shorted I checked with DMM no shorts anywhere on the card. I also didn't break any smd resistor/caps The card has 5 vrms and 5 controllers. VRMs were vcore gpu1, vcore gpu 2, vmem gpu1, vmem gpu2, pcie bridge chip vrm.

Okay so I tried the VRAM VRM bypass. Both sets of VRAM now get 1.55V. The card however still doesn't work. So it looks like I need to try fix the PCI-e gold fingers because those are the only things that went wrong when I was attaching the E-power and so the card is probably not getting PCI-e data properly. I'm going to buy a 1X to 16X PCI-e extension cable and see if that gets the card to start up because all of the PCI-e X1 fingers are fine the problem is with X8 and X16.

If it's not bellow zero it's not extreme. The most you can do with aircooling is buy the best aircooler you can find and then put some 3000RPM+ fans on it.

bump

Ok so I checked the VRAM2 VRM and it looks like it should handle the extra load that running the other VRAM chips will add. Is there any other potential issues that I should be worried about?

Yep mem for the other core is fine running at 1.6V. I did no soldering in the vicinity of the VRAM controller or the VRAM VRM. Everything looks OK so I have no idea what could have broken it. Assuming that the still working VRAM VRM isn't utter garbage I'm thinking of just pulling 1or 2 AWG12 wires from VMEM2 to VMEM1.

Ok so I finally got around to running the card. The bridge chips is good but VMEM for the GPU next to the output connectors is 0.3V.

You can drive higher voltages without risking the death of the transistors because the amount of loose charge carriers in a transistor decreases with cold. So at -200C a 32nm GloFo transistor will have a resistance of say 100K ohm when turned ON, at 50C the transistor will have only 70K ohm resistance when turned ON. This means that if you cool a CPU down the you can push much more voltage at lower or the same currents. This decrease in loose charge carriers with lowering temperatures is what causes the cold bug. If you cool a transistor too much there will not be enough loose charge carries left in the transistor to allow it to conduct when it turns on so even when it's ON it's effectively OFF. Electrical current is what kills the copper wiring and transistors in your CPU. The other thing is that the copper wiring gets less resistive with cold which allows the electrical signal in the CPU to propagate through the wiring faster. The above is what I know for sure from research into the subject. The following on the other hand is speculation: I think that cold also lowers the gate capacitance of the transistors in the CPU this would allow them to change states faster because they take less time to charge up.

1. This is my first zombie mod. 2. I figured that I would just read everything of the cap banks however now I realize that that was a stupid stupid idea.

I accidentally LN2 on my Hyper 212 EVO?

Great I'll try again tomorrow. I'll add some wires for voltage reading to the card. Though I really wonder what the hell I will do if all the voltages are there and the card doesn't work. That would mean I'm screwed right?

What's NF200?