buildzoid

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Oh so this is why you asked about cold slow BIOS. nice score.

Pink!!!!! I think Red would be nice. It makes easy to tell the E-power apart from all the other black PCB power boards.

Wow I might need to get this because my RVE drops RAM channels every few boots when benching.

if the board is mounted horizontally plastidip alone should stop it. If the board is vertical you will have water running down the board and that will cause some obvious issues. But reaaly you should aim to prevent water creation by covering the area around the CPU with some kind of thermally insulating foam. As for powering a TEC. I usually get some PCI-e or CPU extension cables cut them and hook them to the TEC using a screw terminal.

When a TEC fails it fails really really badly and can end up destroying your PC. You'd need some kind of safety system. All my TEC cooling designs have the TEC working as a water chiller because then there is no risk that when it fails it will kill the CPU+MB. The downside is you lose some cooling performance.

A 60W TEC will not work. To get a decent drop in temps the TEC has to be about twice as powerful as the thing you are trying to cool. So say you want to do 5Ghz on 1.5V. You'll need a 300W TEC to get better temps. As for the insulation. TECs are IMO worse than LN2 when it comes to making water. The TEC will most likely not maintain sub 0 temps under load so you will have water everywhere unless you insulate the TEC very well. Waterproofing the board will also be a good idea. I usually do plastidip on the motherboard and the cover up anything that will be cold with armaflex.

Well at least I can keep hitting my Fury Xs with a soldering pen in peace.

This is the first time I've seen the full data sheet for this thing so if anyone's intrested here's a link to it: http://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20Sheets/ON%20Semiconductor%20PDFs/NCP81022.pdf It's used by AMD on the HD 7790 R7 260X as well as the 380 and 380X cards. There might be some other cards that also use it but I don't know them.

what do you consider moderate volts? I have a chip here that does 4.75 cinebench at 1.4Vish(I went 1.35 to 1.4V so it might do it on a little less). Shipping is gonna be kinda expensive since I'm in the UK. It isn't super low voltage at 4.5Ghz but at high volts it's only 50mhz worse than my 4.5Ghz on 1.15V chip.

No updates I've been pretty busy with exams recently.

The problem is that none of my AMD cards count towards the ATI achievement. I have 0 progress in the ATI achievement but I've submitted a ton of different AMD cards.

I think we should have some frequency milestone achievements. 5Ghz 6Ghz 7Ghz 8Ghz Also there's an ATI GPU achievement but no AMD GPU achievement.

That's the MSI one not the Gigabyte

Here it is: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5655#ov

I've run 1.725V through a 3960X on water. It's doable. However you risk the CPU going poof,

Hmm I'll try that if the tape fails. But so far it's looking like the tape will work. I don't plan to use this thing very much it's just a stop gap till I get a real GPU pot and partially because I wanted to test the limits of how cheap I can get this thing to be.

yeah I don't care if the pipes survive or not. If this works then I'm going to keep using it until the tape comes off on it's own. As for soldering. I did consider it but I couldn't find a convenient source for sheet copper and even if I didn't I'd still need some way to cut it up.

Yep fully aware of that. As for the after defrost results. Some of the tape broke but it looks OK for the most part so I proceeded with adding more tape and making a funnel. I try bench this garbage some time this week.

So I had an idea. I'll try make an LN2 pot for as little as possible. I know some other guys have made pots from stock GPU heat sinks. However as far as I can tell all of these were made by attaching metal tubing and such to the heatsinks to contain the LN2. However I have no idea how to metal work and so I decided too just try seal up a refrence HD 4870 heatsink with some electrical tape. I then threw a couple hundred ml of LN2 in it. I didn't see any LN2 escaping and most of the tape held on just fine. It did however make a ton of cracking sounds as it cooled down. I'm hoping that that was just the tape shrinking and not the heatsink fins disconnecting from the copper base. Here's what it looked like frozen: It's a nightmare to pour into right now but I plan to funnel it more so I spill less LN2 if this monstrosity works. Right now I'm waiting for it to defrost and dry. After that I will check the state of all the tape and if it seems OK I'll try run my HD 4870 on LN2.

Ok so there are 2 approaches to baking. With one you just want to heat up the GPU so that you nudge the connections between the die and the substrate into place(these can't be re-flowed). As little as 150C will manage that and you just do it for 10 minutes. This fix is temporary and can last for a few hours or a few months if you're lucky. If it works for a few hours you can just bake again. Then there is straight up re-flow by baking. That happens at around 250C and you'll want to do it also for about 10-15 minutes. However be careful when re-flowing because all the solder will become liquid and you might end up with caps and other components just falling right of the PCB. I would only do this if the first low temperature baking doesn't do anything. If you have a heatgun you can do both without applying unnecessary thermal strain to the rest of the PCB.

The red stripes sound like memory issues. If you plan to trash the card anyway you could try baking it.

I don't have X79 available to me ATM and most likely won't for a very long time so I unfortunately can't accept the challenge

Z Prahy ale ted jsem na skole v anglii. Mozna budu v Praze nekdy prez leto