marco.is.not.80

Totally understand - was worth a shot ;-)

I was about to pull the trigger on a new 7700k just now and remembered your listing. I need an extra CPU since so many of these contests require specific vendor motherboards and I'm sick of ripping my main workstation apart. Right now I can buy a 7700k from Amazon for $329.00 USD I think that translates into 287.99 Euros. I'll pay for shipping, too (I'll send whatever extra money it will take to ship via FedEx 3 day worldwide). Like you said, "make me an offer worst I can say is no"... Here ya go ;-) I'm in USA and I can pay with PayPal. If you have other methods you'll need to educate me.

Can't wait!

Sounds like you got things sorted? Just out of curiosity - how are you measuring your power output?

Your issue might not be wattage but rather amps depending on your 12v rail. I just looked up the specs on your PSU and I guess you have the option of using either one rail or multi-rail by flipping a switch. Make sure you are using one rail mode or you won't get the full 80 amps out of your PSU and by looking at the spec sheet you most certainly won't be having a lot of fun if you are configured for multi-rail. Also, I know that 850w sounds like a lot but when you start overclocking anything you'd be surprised how quick you can run out of power. I have a similar system to you except I'm running two 1080 Ti versions and as soon as I modded my two Strix cards and started upping the voltage and overclocking them combined with my fairly high overclock on my CPU combined with my extra power from the extra volts to my memory, etc.and 850 wouldn't be enough. had the same card you currently have (1080 FTW - not FTW2) by the way, really great card but there is a reason why it has two 8pin power connectors compared to most cards which have an 8 pin and a 6 pin ;-) Nevertheless, if you say it isn't using more than 600w I believe you. But is it possible that with only a gold efficiency rating that might be an issue? I have a SuperNOVA T2 1600w with 133 amps just for comparison. I had to add a second PSU to my system to accommodate the watercooling, RGB lighting, etc. not because I didn't have enough wattage but because I kept blowing the breaker and had to split up my power by running it from two different circuits. The only other thing I can think of is that possibly with different BIOS strings the nvidia driver might be doing something stupid behind the scenes. I know they are technically identical cards but if the driver doesn't think they are who knows what kind of logic will be deployed. What about your SLI bridge? Is it the old style or newer High Speed bridge? Just thinking out loud. - Marco

Wow, Mat - thanks so much for responding and I can't speak for everyone but thank you for all the work you do for the community and I look forward to the next version :-) - Marco

Ok, got it... so it's not actually a timer bug. Got it. So I guess I'm still a little perplexed because those of us on Skylake/KabyLake using Windows 10 aren't affected by this bug so once again my question is why do I need to change anything for this particular benchmark? - Marco

What PSU are you using and what is the rating?

Did you send your FTW in for the upgrade to ICX?

I have a question and before someone says "search" or it was discussed already in this thread I fully read from the last page in this thread all the way to page 30 and then fell asleep at my keyboard and now just woke up and decided to ask my question anyways at risk of being flamed or moderated - so here goes: My understanding is that as long as I have a skylake/kabylake processor AND I'm on Windows 10 then I'm not supposed to be forced to set the HPET settings in the operating system or the BIOS since my system isn't "bugged". When I run GPUPI there is no way for me to avoid setting it in the O/S or it complains about the HPET timer not being set. How can I bypass this? If I can't because I'm totally misunderstanding the HPET bug thingy please feel free to re-educate me... right after I get a coffee. ;-) Marco

payment sent :-)

I'd like to purchase #5. I'm in USA so I'd like to purchase via paypal but I can also send with another mechanism if you care to suggest it. Really hope to grab them. Thanks, let me know.

Normal and even a bit high.

A lot cheaper at Newegg: https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&IsNodeId=1&N=100007611%20601298182

For some reason you are missing the http AND https from your submission. It should have an "http://" before the URL so it looks exactly like this: "http://valid.canardpc.com/975tx1" instead of "https://valid.canardpc.com/975tx1" If you remove the https:// you would think hwbot would interpret it as http:// but if that logic isn't written into the web application then it's going to interpret as it being incorrect.

Let me know if it doesn't sell.

Will you ship to USA? Send me a PM - let's negotiate.

Someone else in this thread mentioned that using the s1080_Tool that extreme addict posted with the XOC bios doesn't reflect the voltage changes in software monitoring apps like MSI Afterburner or GPU-Z so at first I didn't think the utility worked. When I hooked up the hardwire mod I could then see plainly what the voltage was at. I still can't change it using the OC Panel but the s1080tool let's me do it so all good I suppose. NOw, my question is, one of my cards can boost to +139 with just water cooling and the XOC bios. I don't have to change anything other than add +139 to the base close. What I can't figure out is why it is impossible to even get a few seconds of an overclock if I turn it +140. I thought maybe more voltage - but gave it tons of juice and same behavior Any ideas? +139 stable but +140 will freeze every time no matter how much juice I give it? Please educate me.

DJ, did you happen to get a response from CJ in regards to this question? Obviously no response on the thread but was thinking maybe you got a private reply. Hoping, anyways. I have the same issue. With hotwire mod/OC-Panel I can read the voltage but when I try and make any changes it seems they are simply ignored. Maybe I did something wrong? My understanding is you solder the two wires to GPU and connect them to the relevant OC-Panel VGA hotwire connector and you're done. That's correct, right?

I am doing my best to try and find a download link but it seems like the site itself where this is downloaded from (not the binary but the site) is full of stuff that is making it impossible to access if you have any malware preventative software installed. In fact, the IP reputation of the site itself is no longer positive. So, how does one get this?

Thanks for this XA and thanks for the XOC Bios/Tools. I just picked up two of the exact same cards in your photos and just waiting for my waterblocks from EKweb but lots to look forward to now :-)

Hi Support, I'd like to request two entries to be entered in the hardware database for: 1) PSU/Power Supply Unit: EVGA SuperNOVA 1600 T2 & 1) SSD/Drive: HP 320GB SLC PCIe ioDrive Duo Let me know if there anything else I need to provide? Thanks for all the work you guys do to provide such a great place for the community!

Will do! Thanks WS!

I've been looking all over the forums for this answer and can't find it and hope I've posted this question in the correct category - if not could a moderator move it for me? I don't usually worry about HWBOT submissions that don't recognize my hardware when the hardware is secondary to the submission. For example, when I do an XTU submission and it gets to the part about my PSU no matter what I do it will not accept that I have an EVGA SuperNOVA 1600 T2. It doesn't matter how I enter it, even with the auto-completion up to the point of "EVGA SuperNOVA" it wants me to enter "G2" or "P2" but no way it will take "T2". But no big deal - I'm doing an XTU submission and it gets my processor right so I suspect it's not a big deal. Now I want to submit a benchmark for my HP IO Accelerator (an OEM made version of the Sandisk/Fusion ioDrive) using AS SSD Benchmark and when it comes to actually entering in my drive make and manufacturer it won't let me put my device in and only accepts what can be autocompleted. Can someone give me any instructions or advice on how to proceed? Thanks in advance!

I don't know how I missed the mandatory background but I think subconsciously I read Splave's one response about "lol - it's not working here" and didn't include it despite my thorough submission in the 1st round. :-( Oh well, good luck to people moving forward and thanks to Obi-Wan Splave-nobi for using jedi mind tricks on me... ;-)