So I finally managed to enter elite Titan Zombie club (4th person who modded Titan if I am correct) and I want to share my experience. My card was 100% working before modding, so I had a lot to lose, that's why I tried to do everything very carefully.

 

This guide and my mod wouldn't exist without EVGA support. Ronaldo (rbuass) also helped me a lot and my mod was based on his experience.

 

STEP 1

 

Prepare a good SOLDERING STATION DESK

 

 

STEP 2

 

Prepare your EPOWER

 

 

It's better to connect all POSITIVE (+) soldering pads cause it will be easier to solder it directly to Titant's PCB

 

STEP 3

 

Remove chokes from your Titan (6 pieces)

 

 

STEP 4 - MOST DANGEROUS AND HARD

 

You need to disable "Alert" connection, PIN 2 of NCP 4206 controller

 

Typical scheme for ON SEMICONDUCTOR controlers:

 

 

And here on PCB

 

 

Trace from Pin 2 has 2 millimetres long and it goes inside PCB. Be sure not to cut other traces. It's the most hard part. I could barely see it through magnifier.

 

STEP 5

 

As we are going to use stock VDIMM VRM, we need a VMOD for it

 

STEP 6

 

The same with VPLL MOD

 

 

STEP 6

 

Measure points:

 

For VDIMM and VGPU:

 

 

For VPLL:

 

 

STEP 7

 

THERMAL SHUTDOWN MOD

 

STEP 8

 

Soldering Epower

 

POSITIVE (+)

 

 

 

NEGATIVE (-/GND)

 

 

My mod looks like:

 

 

Final step - checking if it's ALIVE!

 

 

 

Soon I will do some strong LN2 results and update this guide with adding some extra capacitors for GPU & MEM.

 

 

Enjoy and have fun!

Edited April 10, 201312 yr by Xtreme Addict

Thanks for sharing

Awesome!

Good job..!! Thanks for sharing

nice mate

Strong!

Why you use stock vdim?

Thx guys

 

@ Smoke

 

Cause I think it's enough after adding some extra capacitors

Edited April 10, 201312 yr by Xtreme Addict

That's above my league

EPIC mod mate!!

I wonder how many years it will take me to have the skills to do that..

Awesome stuff XA

Resize pics please

Great guide Michal! Wish ya luck with LN2!

Did you use heatgun to de-solder those chokes? And btw what are the cracks on this pic?

@ Pieter - too tired now

 

@ Oleg

 

Thx I always use HOT AIR (in left hand) + Soldering gun (in right hand) to desolder chokes This way it goes very fast (20-30 seconds per choke).

 

Those cracks are strings of HOT GLUE after protecting VMODS and mounting Epower Core is 100% fine.

I always use HOT AIR (in left hand) + Soldering gun (in right hand) to desolder chokes This way it goes very fast (20-30 seconds per choke).

right you are man! btw having 4 hands + 2 100W solders + heatgun makes the process a truly piece of cake especially when chokes are smt-ones -)

 

Those cracks are strings of HOT GLUE after protecting VMODS and mounting Epower Core is 100% fine.

I didn't have any doubt but couldn't identify the 'cracks' source -)

Nice work! Thanks for sharing

You make it look very easy Nicely done!!

hey XA, thats a great guide,

 

can i add a couple little things that might make things easier for people

 

pin 2 is powergood not reset, so the whole point of cutting the trace is to keep the vgpu controller in powergood state,

 

also alternatively than cutting the trace, you can destroy the vgpu pwm controller by cutting it with a dremel or removing it with a heat gun, both of these options will disable the vgpu controller, removing with a heat gun is probably the best option

Thanks

 

Hehe but some of us are going to unmod cards after benching We don't need to reconnect trace to make card work @ stock VRM, resoldering NCP controller will be hard, especially for me. But I think that you connected your own VPLL from Gpower to card? You have to remember that Epower has only VGPU/VMEM. We need to cut pin2 trace to force vgpu controller to be ON and to have VPLL on GPU. I don't know if card will have VPLL without VGPU controller.

 

Soon I will upload more pictures with updates. So far I got @ 1600 GPU @ 1.5-1.52v, CBB -80*C, CB 150*C, but I have problems with higher voltages. I am working on solving this problem

Edited April 22, 201312 yr by Xtreme Addict

Thanks

 

Hehe but some of us are going to unmod cards after benching We don't need to reconnect trace to make card work @ stock VRM, resoldering NCP controller will be hard, especially for me. But I think that you connected your own VPLL from Gpower to card? You have to remember that Epower has only VGPU/VMEM. We need to cut pin2 trace to force vgpu controller to be ON and to have VPLL on GPU. I don't know if card will have VPLL without VGPU controller.

 

Soon I will upload more pictures with updates. So far I got @ 1600 GPU @ 1.5-1.52v, CBB -80*C, CB 150*C, but I have problems with higher voltages. I am working on solving this problem

we only did core voltage via that power board and nothing else. we used stock vpll and vmem (modded vmem for more volts via that mod guide though)

 

card had vpll without controller

Good to know But for me it's easier to cut trace then remove controller, and trying to solder it in the future

how do you plan to reconnect a trace once you cut it?

I think it's not necessary, but not sure though. But reconnecting it can be done with a tiny cable

Or just a big glob of solder, yeah?

Or just a big glob of solder, yeah?

 

Yap, it will also do the work

how do you plan to reconnect a trace once you cut it?

 

 

With the multimeter... you will find what pad you can wire directly to pin 2.