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Zombie Titan Guide


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So I finally managed to enter elite Titan Zombie club (4th person who modded Titan if I am correct) and I want to share my experience. My card was 100% working before modding, so I had a lot to lose, that's why I tried to do everything very carefully.

 

This guide and my mod wouldn't exist without EVGA support. Ronaldo (rbuass) also helped me a lot and my mod was based on his experience.

 

STEP 1

 

Prepare a good SOLDERING STATION DESK

 

all15.jpg

 

STEP 2

 

Prepare your EPOWER

 

epower.JPG

 

It's better to connect all POSITIVE (+) soldering pads cause it will be easier to solder it directly to Titant's PCB

 

epower2.JPG

STEP 3

 

Remove chokes from your Titan (6 pieces)

 

chokes.JPG

 

STEP 4 - MOST DANGEROUS AND HARD

 

You need to disable "Alert" connection, PIN 2 of NCP 4206 controller

 

Typical scheme for ON SEMICONDUCTOR controlers:

 

pins.jpg

 

And here on PCB

 

all18.jpg

 

Trace from Pin 2 has 2 millimetres long and it goes inside PCB. Be sure not to cut other traces. It's the most hard part. I could barely see it through magnifier.

 

STEP 5

 

As we are going to use stock VDIMM VRM, we need a VMOD for it

 

all19.jpg

STEP 6

 

The same with VPLL MOD

 

all10.jpg

 

STEP 6

 

Measure points:

 

For VDIMM and VGPU:

 

all12.jpg

 

For VPLL:

 

all11.jpg

 

STEP 7

 

THERMAL SHUTDOWN MOD

 

all16.jpg

STEP 8

 

Soldering Epower

 

POSITIVE (+)

 

all1.jpg

 

 

NEGATIVE (-/GND)

 

all17.jpg

 

My mod looks like:

 

all13.jpg

 

all14.jpg

Final step - checking if it's ALIVE!

 

ALIVE.JPG

 

 

Soon I will do some strong LN2 results and update this guide with adding some extra capacitors for GPU & MEM.

 

 

Enjoy and have fun! :)

Edited by Xtreme Addict
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I always use HOT AIR (in left hand) + Soldering gun (in right hand) to desolder chokes :) This way it goes very fast (20-30 seconds per choke).

right you are man! btw having 4 hands + 2 100W solders + heatgun makes the process a truly piece of cake especially when chokes are smt-ones -)

 

Those cracks are strings of HOT GLUE after protecting VMODS and mounting Epower ;) Core is 100% fine.
I didn't have any doubt but couldn't identify the 'cracks' source -)
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  • 2 weeks later...
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hey XA, thats a great guide,

 

can i add a couple little things that might make things easier for people

 

pin 2 is powergood not reset, so the whole point of cutting the trace is to keep the vgpu controller in powergood state,

 

also alternatively than cutting the trace, you can destroy the vgpu pwm controller by cutting it with a dremel or removing it with a heat gun, both of these options will disable the vgpu controller, removing with a heat gun is probably the best option

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Thanks :)

 

Hehe but some of us are going to unmod cards after benching :) We don't need to reconnect trace to make card work @ stock VRM, resoldering NCP controller will be hard, especially for me. But I think that you connected your own VPLL from Gpower to card? You have to remember that Epower has only VGPU/VMEM. We need to cut pin2 trace to force vgpu controller to be ON and to have VPLL on GPU. I don't know if card will have VPLL without VGPU controller.

 

Soon I will upload more pictures with updates. So far I got @ 1600 GPU @ 1.5-1.52v, CBB -80*C, CB 150*C, but I have problems with higher voltages. I am working on solving this problem :)

Edited by Xtreme Addict
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Thanks :)

 

Hehe but some of us are going to unmod cards after benching :) We don't need to reconnect trace to make card work @ stock VRM, resoldering NCP controller will be hard, especially for me. But I think that you connected your own VPLL from Gpower to card? You have to remember that Epower has only VGPU/VMEM. We need to cut pin2 trace to force vgpu controller to be ON and to have VPLL on GPU. I don't know if card will have VPLL without VGPU controller.

 

Soon I will upload more pictures with updates. So far I got @ 1600 GPU @ 1.5-1.52v, CBB -80*C, CB 150*C, but I have problems with higher voltages. I am working on solving this problem :)

we only did core voltage via that power board and nothing else. we used stock vpll and vmem (modded vmem for more volts via that mod guide though)

 

card had vpll without controller :)

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