Xtreme Addict Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 (edited) So I finally managed to enter elite Titan Zombie club (4th person who modded Titan if I am correct) and I want to share my experience. My card was 100% working before modding, so I had a lot to lose, that's why I tried to do everything very carefully. This guide and my mod wouldn't exist without EVGA support. Ronaldo (rbuass) also helped me a lot and my mod was based on his experience. STEP 1 Prepare a good SOLDERING STATION DESK STEP 2 Prepare your EPOWER It's better to connect all POSITIVE (+) soldering pads cause it will be easier to solder it directly to Titant's PCB STEP 3 Remove chokes from your Titan (6 pieces) STEP 4 - MOST DANGEROUS AND HARD You need to disable "Alert" connection, PIN 2 of NCP 4206 controller Typical scheme for ON SEMICONDUCTOR controlers: And here on PCB Trace from Pin 2 has 2 millimetres long and it goes inside PCB. Be sure not to cut other traces. It's the most hard part. I could barely see it through magnifier. STEP 5 As we are going to use stock VDIMM VRM, we need a VMOD for it STEP 6 The same with VPLL MOD STEP 6 Measure points: For VDIMM and VGPU: For VPLL: STEP 7 THERMAL SHUTDOWN MOD STEP 8 Soldering Epower POSITIVE (+) NEGATIVE (-/GND) My mod looks like: Final step - checking if it's ALIVE! Soon I will do some strong LN2 results and update this guide with adding some extra capacitors for GPU & MEM. Enjoy and have fun! Edited April 10, 2013 by Xtreme Addict Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ananerbe Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 Thanks for sharing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slamms Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 Awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oc_windforce Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 Good job..!! Thanks for sharing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dinos22 Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 nice mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoke Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 Strong! Why you use stock vdim? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xtreme Addict Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share Posted April 10, 2013 (edited) Thx guys @ Smoke Cause I think it's enough after adding some extra capacitors Edited April 10, 2013 by Xtreme Addict Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gamer Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 That's above my league Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky_n00b Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 EPIC mod mate!! I wonder how many years it will take me to have the skills to do that.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjjc Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 Awesome stuff XA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Massman Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 Resize pics please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyclone Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 Great guide Michal! Wish ya luck with LN2! Did you use heatgun to de-solder those chokes? And btw what are the cracks on this pic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xtreme Addict Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share Posted April 10, 2013 @ Pieter - too tired now @ Oleg Thx I always use HOT AIR (in left hand) + Soldering gun (in right hand) to desolder chokes This way it goes very fast (20-30 seconds per choke). Those cracks are strings of HOT GLUE after protecting VMODS and mounting Epower Core is 100% fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyclone Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 I always use HOT AIR (in left hand) + Soldering gun (in right hand) to desolder chokes This way it goes very fast (20-30 seconds per choke). right you are man! btw having 4 hands + 2 100W solders + heatgun makes the process a truly piece of cake especially when chokes are smt-ones -) Those cracks are strings of HOT GLUE after protecting VMODS and mounting Epower Core is 100% fine.I didn't have any doubt but couldn't identify the 'cracks' source -) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
der8auer Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 Nice work! Thanks for sharing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K404 Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 You make it look very easy Nicely done!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crew pro Posted April 22, 2013 Crew Share Posted April 22, 2013 hey XA, thats a great guide, can i add a couple little things that might make things easier for people pin 2 is powergood not reset, so the whole point of cutting the trace is to keep the vgpu controller in powergood state, also alternatively than cutting the trace, you can destroy the vgpu pwm controller by cutting it with a dremel or removing it with a heat gun, both of these options will disable the vgpu controller, removing with a heat gun is probably the best option Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xtreme Addict Posted April 22, 2013 Author Share Posted April 22, 2013 (edited) Thanks Hehe but some of us are going to unmod cards after benching We don't need to reconnect trace to make card work @ stock VRM, resoldering NCP controller will be hard, especially for me. But I think that you connected your own VPLL from Gpower to card? You have to remember that Epower has only VGPU/VMEM. We need to cut pin2 trace to force vgpu controller to be ON and to have VPLL on GPU. I don't know if card will have VPLL without VGPU controller. Soon I will upload more pictures with updates. So far I got @ 1600 GPU @ 1.5-1.52v, CBB -80*C, CB 150*C, but I have problems with higher voltages. I am working on solving this problem Edited April 22, 2013 by Xtreme Addict Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dinos22 Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 Thanks Hehe but some of us are going to unmod cards after benching We don't need to reconnect trace to make card work @ stock VRM, resoldering NCP controller will be hard, especially for me. But I think that you connected your own VPLL from Gpower to card? You have to remember that Epower has only VGPU/VMEM. We need to cut pin2 trace to force vgpu controller to be ON and to have VPLL on GPU. I don't know if card will have VPLL without VGPU controller. Soon I will upload more pictures with updates. So far I got @ 1600 GPU @ 1.5-1.52v, CBB -80*C, CB 150*C, but I have problems with higher voltages. I am working on solving this problem we only did core voltage via that power board and nothing else. we used stock vpll and vmem (modded vmem for more volts via that mod guide though) card had vpll without controller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xtreme Addict Posted April 22, 2013 Author Share Posted April 22, 2013 Good to know But for me it's easier to cut trace then remove controller, and trying to solder it in the future Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dinos22 Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 how do you plan to reconnect a trace once you cut it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xtreme Addict Posted April 22, 2013 Author Share Posted April 22, 2013 I think it's not necessary, but not sure though. But reconnecting it can be done with a tiny cable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxbassplayerxx Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 Or just a big glob of solder, yeah? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xtreme Addict Posted April 22, 2013 Author Share Posted April 22, 2013 Or just a big glob of solder, yeah? Yap, it will also do the work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbuass Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 how do you plan to reconnect a trace once you cut it? With the multimeter... you will find what pad you can wire directly to pin 2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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