Strong Island Posted March 2, 2016 Posted March 2, 2016 would love to try one, been using tape and all sorts of things. Quote
Guest barbonenet Posted March 2, 2016 Posted March 2, 2016 if it is just a trial,u can cut in half that and try:D alot of thickness from 0.02mm to 1mm Quote
Xtreme Addict Posted March 2, 2016 Posted March 2, 2016 What if you rotate the pot by 45 degrees (e.g. F1EE has relatively small base)? Then it should work without cutting corners.Will have to fasten it with something else though. Or make a custom "diagonal" mounting kit. EK-SF3D Inflection Point EVO will fit to touch only the DIE. It has small base (round one), which is much smaller than IHS of CPU Quote
xxbassplayerxx Posted March 2, 2016 Posted March 2, 2016 EK-SF3D Inflection Point EVO will fit to touch only the DIE. It has small base (round one), which is much smaller than IHS of CPU I got the chance to use an EVO last week... even on a C2D it's hard to hold a temperature with that. It was swinging all over the place. Vince has spoiled me Quote
zeropluszero Posted March 3, 2016 Posted March 3, 2016 XA has used them a while. Maybe hes quick-pour mcgraw. If you've only used an f1, then try the venom, you'll see what i mean. Much quicker response. Quote
xxbassplayerxx Posted March 3, 2016 Posted March 3, 2016 Yeah, @steponz was saying the same thing. I like to be lazy with my pouring so the Dark is perfect for me Quote
zeropluszero Posted March 3, 2016 Posted March 3, 2016 Ive got both, personally prefer the venom, even on haswell with the precise cold bugging. Quote
Crew Leeghoofd Posted March 4, 2016 Crew Posted March 4, 2016 (edited) Kit arrived, testing this weekend Edited March 4, 2016 by Leeghoofd Quote
Wizerty Posted March 4, 2016 Posted March 4, 2016 For those who want to try to help BUT don't have Roman spacer, you can try with paper sheet . Easy to cut, cheap and you can use paper even with black glue. Classic paper is less than 0.1mm so if you want more can use more sheet or find high quality paper. I didn't try but it should works Great idea Roman Quote
subaruwrc Posted March 5, 2016 Posted March 5, 2016 Hi! Seems like I'd found a good solution for fullpot benching.The idea was to not put too much pressure on the cpu circuit board as we know its thin so changes shape easily. I was thinking about the possible cause of cracking for two days straight and it seems I was right in one way.It can be caused from the deformed pcb not making even contact with the ihs. In this session I put one layer of dielectric tape next to the die to support the ihs and not push out all of the TIM because I was thinking that its better if that whole thing freezes into 1 piece solidly. So my easy solution is to put some tape under the ihs to support it a bit,and keep the factory distance from the die,apply more paste than you would normally,and put light pressure on the pot.It depends on which pot you have,but I have an Xtreme ONE which is a 4,4kg beast so It doesnt need any additional force.OH and I put a little mx2 paste under the side of the IHS like the factory glue,so It froze together solidly,and no crack until -180c which gave me additional 100-150mhz 4c/8t benching.. Next thing we should think about is how to support the inner section of the cpu,so it doesn't bend into the socket,so we can use more force on the pot which could make even better contact. just my two cents.. Quote
der8auer Posted March 5, 2016 Author Posted March 5, 2016 Yea that basically confirms my testing as well. But we have to know which distance will lead to the best results. Ideally we will have a special IHS with the perfect distances to avoid cracking. Not sure if bending is causing any more problems. I think it's more the pressure and thickness of the TIM layer. Did you put the layer also around the whole IHS? Good testing! Quote
xxbassplayerxx Posted March 5, 2016 Posted March 5, 2016 So here's my finding on my 6700K... Absolutely no crack the three times I froze it. I delidded it, left all black residue, used Kryonaut under the die and between pot, and tightened all down tight. All of that, and I was running full pot, -192 or so, without issue. Quote
speed.fastest Posted March 5, 2016 Posted March 5, 2016 Wow very intresting discussion. I have an idea but i don't know how to make it. How about make IHS for Skylake with this bracket. So IHS will tight and no air in. No accident IHS moved because you use heavy pot. Even if you use heavy pot maybe this design will help to make a "perfect" ihs for skylake. Maybe you can use the paste under IHS many times Quote
RULE Posted March 5, 2016 Posted March 5, 2016 This morning is starting pretty shitty. Roman's cpu is dead 00 I'm currently testing another one: with 4 spacer there's not much contact between the die and ihs. with 3 spacer the Grizzly broken @ -170°c Now i'm gonna test with 2. Quote
subaruwrc Posted March 5, 2016 Posted March 5, 2016 Yea that basically confirms my testing as well. But we have to know which distance will lead to the best results. Ideally we will have a special IHS with the perfect distances to avoid cracking.Not sure if bending is causing any more problems. I think it's more the pressure and thickness of the TIM layer. Did you put the layer also around the whole IHS? Good testing! Thanks man! yep,firstly I tried with these two little pieces then went further and covered the whole pcb.It needs a layer of tape anyway to keep the moisture away from the socket pins.Only thing I was care of is not to overlap the tape so there won't be a similar surface.Looks like it worked,but slow pouring is needed.Only went down to full pot when tried to run 6.3 hwprime at 1.85v. Quote
Crew Vivi Posted March 5, 2016 Crew Posted March 5, 2016 was also playing this game haha. Had circular IHS's made. Problem was the pip in the middle. Quote
xxbassplayerxx Posted March 5, 2016 Posted March 5, 2016 Gonna have to do that last part on a mill instead of a lathe. Quote
RULE Posted March 6, 2016 Posted March 6, 2016 From my test the spacer doesn't help the cracking stuff. Have you guys found something different? Quote
Crew Leeghoofd Posted March 6, 2016 Crew Posted March 6, 2016 I'm still testing on watercooling... I ran before like Wizerty suggested with one layer of scotch black tape... so I guess 1-2 spacers is plenty ... rest might be overkill... Quote
Splave Posted March 6, 2016 Posted March 6, 2016 (edited) I dont care about the snap anymore becauses once I get it i just heat to 60ish degrees in wprime 5ghz 1.60v and till pot temp hits around -20c its fine again. Im happy to hear it because I only get it once a session usually. my best xtu run is after a snap and using this method. Edited March 6, 2016 by Splave Quote
Crew Leeghoofd Posted March 6, 2016 Crew Posted March 6, 2016 I dont care about the snap anymore becauses once I get it i just heat to 60ish degrees in wprime 5ghz 1.60v and till pot temp hits around -20c its fine again. Im happy to hear it because I only get it once a session usually. my best xtu run is after a snap and using this method. Well if you don't have enough paste it won't work again Allen... I glued back the IHS in the beginning and it took me a while to figure out my clearance was not enough. So if I had the crack the paste was literally a goner... -120 pot temps was +40 on idle, heating up made it only worse... So the clearance needs to be correct... It will always crack in my book after some time, hence why many re-apply the paste before doing a new session... Quote
subaruwrc Posted March 6, 2016 Posted March 6, 2016 2nd session without cracking,with the method I described. Quote
ShrimpBrime Posted March 7, 2016 Posted March 7, 2016 Interesting concept to take up space missing from cutting the glue. I've seent his with AMD processors that had been de-lidded and decided to just leave the IHS plate off. However I have lapped the bottom edges around the IHS plate where it meets the processor PCB to be sure it touches all the way round four corners. Very cool, hats off! ~ShrimpBrime~ Quote
zeropluszero Posted March 7, 2016 Posted March 7, 2016 I dont care about the snap anymore becauses once I get it i just heat to 60ish degrees in wprime 5ghz 1.60v and till pot temp hits around -20c its fine again. Im happy to hear it because I only get it once a session usually. my best xtu run is after a snap and using this method. Is it not just easier to mount while ambient and warm to +60, then pull down? Quote
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