RomanLV Posted March 7, 2016 Posted March 7, 2016 Why do you cut the plate in the size of the old one? It is necessary to heat spreader was the size of the PCB - would cover the corners. Those. should be a new heat spreader type of http://abload.de/image.php?img=imageidsya.jpeg but larger size It's elementary strength of materials. Lever arm, strength bending... Quote
GtiJason Posted March 7, 2016 Posted March 7, 2016 Is it not just easier to mount while ambient and warm to +60, then pull down? Not to put words in his mouth but I took it as him saying he does this after a crack, so running cold for a while and this is his method of re seating the thermal paste so he can keep benching Quote
joe_cool Posted March 7, 2016 Posted March 7, 2016 Why do you cut the plate in the size of the old one? It is necessary to heat spreader was the size of the PCB - would cover the corners. Those. should be a new heat spreader type of http://abload.de/image.php?img=imageidsya.jpeg but larger sizeIt's elementary strength of materials. Lever arm, strength bending... Because it's a first test only. I build that because i need more mass (atm ca. double weigt) ihs for my cascade. Other option for me was to make more mass evap... but that's not so easy for testing. _ Quote
xxbassplayerxx Posted March 7, 2016 Posted March 7, 2016 Why do you cut the plate in the size of the old one? It is necessary to heat spreader was the size of the PCB - would cover the corners. Those. should be a new heat spreader type of http://abload.de/image.php?img=imageidsya.jpeg but larger sizeIt's elementary strength of materials. Lever arm, strength bending... A heat spreader the size of the PCB would definitely help prevent PCB bending--great idea! Quote
RomanLV Posted March 7, 2016 Posted March 7, 2016 (edited) Because it's a first test only. I build that because i need more mass (atm ca. double weigt) ihs for my cascade. Other option for me was to make more mass evap... but that's not so easy for testing. _ Your picture I showed an example. My main idea is to move the pressure points to the edge of (to the point of contact CPU PCB with the socket) Reducing the pressure on the center (CPU crystal) not the main, and of itself not solve the problem. In theory. I do not have subge a processor and guided only by a pictures deformed processors, logic, and knowledge of subject "strength of materials". Well, and the experience of working with similar problems. Edited March 7, 2016 by RomanLV Quote
joe_cool Posted March 7, 2016 Posted March 7, 2016 I know what you mean, i have myself a lot of other idea's to solve the prob, but not for public now. Quote
Splave Posted March 7, 2016 Posted March 7, 2016 (edited) Not to put words in his mouth but I took it as him saying he does this after a crack, so running cold for a while and this is his method of re seating the thermal paste so he can keep benching this Leeg you need use more TIM if heat up method doesnt work to fix it give this a try! Edited March 7, 2016 by Splave Quote
Gunslinger Posted March 7, 2016 Posted March 7, 2016 this Leeg you need use more TIM if heat up method doesnt work to fix it give this a try! Time to buy stock in Thermal Grizzly Quote
zeropluszero Posted March 7, 2016 Posted March 7, 2016 This goes against everything I understand about thermal paste. remember when it was just for filling the microscopic gaps? Quote
speed.fastest Posted March 7, 2016 Posted March 7, 2016 So i think i do it right from the first. With big glop of paste my temp is much lower with custom water cooling. Now i just need GC Extreme (because no grizzly here). Quote
Guest Bullant Posted March 7, 2016 Posted March 7, 2016 this Leeg you need use more TIM if heat up method doesnt work to fix it give this a try! I've been using splaves paste metherd as well works great,full pot ever session with no crack Quote
Massman Posted March 8, 2016 Posted March 8, 2016 That's the funniest application of thermal paste I've seen. Remember all those article and forum threads where people discuss if you need a blop, a cross or a square? Nope, you need a pile of paste. Quote
FireKillerGR Posted March 8, 2016 Posted March 8, 2016 This goes against everything I understand about thermal paste. remember when it was just for filling the microscopic gaps? Yeah haha Now its more about "creating" more "connection" points between IHS and die so paste can handle the "stress" without cracking Quote
Guest barbonenet Posted March 10, 2016 Posted March 10, 2016 (edited) I 0.15 is the last that fit easy....so i think that a tickness of 0.20 should be fine....but a metal tickness not as said wizerty in paper....paper is squeezable Sent from my E2353 using Tapatalk Edited March 10, 2016 by barbonenet Quote
5erveD Posted March 11, 2016 Posted March 11, 2016 What about the gap in the glue which leaves a breathing hole for expanding and contracting of the paste and it's ingredients? I only assume that the hole which is there in the normal glue would be some sort of breathing gap for the natural movement of the tim. Just a wild guess tho. As for what I understand, all things expand and contract when put under hot or cold. So why wouldn't it be the same for the tim. And that could be the Kraken. Quote
Splave Posted March 11, 2016 Posted March 11, 2016 why not drill a hole in the top corner of the IHS like x99 Quote
xxbassplayerxx Posted March 11, 2016 Posted March 11, 2016 Should probably just drill a hole through the chip itself Quote
joe_cool Posted March 15, 2016 Posted March 15, 2016 Hey Roman, what's up?? I send you one of my copper ihs for testing and till now not any response!? If you don't need it, pls send it back to me! _ Quote
Strong Island Posted March 17, 2016 Posted March 17, 2016 From my test the spacer doesn't help the cracking stuff. Have you guys found something different? I have been using strips of electrical tape for months now and it never seems to be consistent. At one point no crack, same exact method next time and crack. But I have tried 4 strips on each side, I have also tried 2 pieces high on each side. I have also tried glueing the ihs back everytime and re-delidding. Then I will bench and think I fixed it and do the same thing again and it cracks. It's really strange and hard for me to figure out. I have also been using a lot of paste but not as much as splave showed. Will try that this weekend with new chip. I also tried with i3. delidded and glued back together with a little higher glue and a ton of paste and I had terrible cracks. Some of my best results have been cracking it on purpose and heating up with xtu and then benching more. its definitely the most frustrating thing I have come across since starting xoc. Quote
hotrod717 Posted March 18, 2016 Posted March 18, 2016 Have an issue, hopefully someone has an idea what the **** is going on, cause I can't figure it out. So I recently delidded 2 chips using delid tool. Scraped glue off pcb and ihs with credit card, as I've done every chip in past. Re-timmed 6320 and ran without any issues. 2nd time I tried running 6320, mobo wouldn't boot. Fast forward to 2 weeks later, today. 2 different mobos. Both 6700k and 6320 will not post. Both look pristine without bend, scratch, or other defect. Multiple mountings and still no post. I've seen codes 14 and 00 on Gene and 04 on OCF. Multiple sticks and configurations of ram, cosm cleared dozen times, no post. Why would this be happening? Never had any issues like this before with delidded cpu. I even checked 1st skylake i bent and it boots no problem. So why would 2 chips using safe method, appear dead?? I'm at a loss. Quote
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